How to clean your pool filter

Your cartridge or sand filter requires regular sanitising in order to maintain safe and healthy water. Follow these steps to sanitise both filter types, using BioGuard Filter Brite.

With the filter being such an important part of your pool system, it also will require regular cleaning.

Using Filter Brite will sanitise, and remove grease, and scale as well as rust deposits in your filter promoting much higher efficiency. This in turn promotes cleaner, healthier water.

FOR A CARTRIDGE FILTER:

To clean a cartridge filter, the first thing we do is remove the cartridge from the filter and then rinse off any debris.

Using a plastic bucket big enough to fit the cartridge (or at least half of it so you can flip over and do the other end later). Fill a bucket/container with water and add one sachet of Filter Brite then insert the cartridge.

Allow to stand overnight if possible, otherwise for as long as possible. *The longer you leave it the more effective the clean.

Remove the cartridge from the bucket/container and rinse off the cartridge with clean water

Return the cartridge to the filter & replace the lid, making sure your o’rings are in place correctly.

Turn your pump on and bleed the air from the top until water come out! Turn your pool to automatic and you’re done!

FOR A SAND OR MEDIA FILTER:

Dissolve one sachet of Filter Brite into a bucket with 2 litres of clean water, mixing with a stick if required.

Turn your pump off & remove the pump basket lid.

Pour this solution carefully into the pump basket.

With the pump basket still removed, turn the pool pump back ON until the solution is ‘sucked through’ then turn the pump OFF again (This should only take a few seconds)

Put the pump basket lid back on and leave the system OFF for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight.

Finally, backwash and rinse your filter as normal *see the below steps for this process.

• Turn the pump off,

• Change the valve handle from the filter onto BACKWASH,

• Open any valves on the waste line,

• Disconnect any suction cleaners & vacuum plates,

• Then turn the pump back on for 30-40 seconds or when the sight glass is clear,

• Turn the pump off,

• Turn the filter handle to RINSE,

• Turn the pump on for 20 -30 seconds to resettle the sand,

• Turn the pump off again,

• Return the multiport valve to FILTER,

• Reconnect the cleaner and

• Turn the pump back on (or set the timer to auto).

Your filter is now clean and a lot of the nasties are removed from your filter, ready for another few months of highly efficient filtration.

WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL ON USING FILTER BRITE BELOW

Contact us to have one of our team come and give your filter a clean or pop into our store to pick up your packet of Filter Brite to clean your filters today!

Reduce pool costs: 6 practical tips for pool owners

Swimming pools are a popular addition to many homes, but the costs associated with owning and maintaining a pool can add up quickly. Fortunately, there are several ways to save money on pool costs without sacrificing enjoyment.

Read our six tips for saving money on pool costs that are both practical and effective.

1. UPGRADE TO A VARIABLE-SPEED POOL PUMP

One of the most significant expenses associated with owning a pool is the cost of running the pool pump. However, by upgrading to a variable-speed pool pump, you can significantly reduce your energy consumption and save a substantial amount of money.

Variable speed pumps operate at lower speeds when less water flow is required, using less energy, and resulting in a reduction in your monthly electric bill.

2. REGULAR PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE

Regular maintenance is crucial for the longevity of your pool, and it can help you avoid costly repairs and treatments. Regular professional maintenance includes balancing the water, cleaning the pool, brushing the walls, and vacuuming, which prevents the build-up of harmful bacteria and algae as well as equipment maintenance.

This extends the life of your pool equipment, reducing the need for costly repairs or replacement earlier than needed.

3. USE OZONE TO REDUCE BALANCING CHEMICALS

By adding an Ozone generator to your pool system, you’ll use the powerful natural disinfectant of Ozone that can reduce the need for traditional pool chemicals such as chlorine. By reducing the amount of chlorine needed, you can save money on your other pool balancing chemicals.

Ozone is also better for the environment as it does not produce harmful by-products like chloramines.

4. INVEST IN A POOL COVER

Investing in a pool cover can save you money in the long run by reducing the need for cleaning and chemical treatments. Covers can help keep debris out of the pool and retain heat, reducing energy costs associated with any heating requirements.

By reducing the amount of water evaporation by up to 90%, you can also save on water costs. Find out more about the benefits of pool covers.

5. WINTERISE YOUR POOL IN COOLER MONTHS

Winterising your pool is a smart way to minimise your pool's chemical usage as well as running costs and maintenance. By using a few long-term products designed for cooler water temperatures.

This will save you from rebalancing your water with additional chemicals too often, as well as avoiding expensive green pool clean-ups as the weather warms up again. Read more on Winterising your pool here.

6. DIY REGULAR MAINTENANCE

Regular DIY maintenance can save you money by reducing the need for professional cleaning services. By using our helpful guides and tips, you can learn how to perform basic maintenance tasks, such as testing your water chemistry and adjusting chemical levels.

Coming to see us regularly in the shop will also help us, help you identify any potential issues early, reducing the need for costly repairs down the road.

OVERVIEW:

There are many ways to save money on pool costs without sacrificing enjoyment. By using one or more of these six tips, you can significantly reduce your pool-related expenses.

Upgrade to a variable speed pool pump, get us to regularly maintain your pool or spa, install an Ozone system, invest in a pool cover, winterise your pool, or do the regular maintenance yourself are all practical and effective ways to save money on pool costs.

Contact us today to discuss which way/s is the best for you!

Pool Chemicals aren’t all created equal

• Chemicals from large retailers may be cheap, though they will cause expensive problems later.

• They chemicals you use affect other parts of the pool & water balance

• Pool shops have specialised knowledge on what chemicals to use and what’s in them.

• Use the right chemicals less often.

Don’t get sold the wrong pool chemicals for your pool!

Most large retailers don’t specialise in swimming pool & spa chemicals so will sell what has the best profit margins for them, and this usually means the quality is lower. Their staff also don’t have the high levels of knowledge and understanding about the chemicals they are selling, as well as the effects they have on your water & and your health!

Did you know?

The short-term saving on your chemical costs will cause issues later due to chemical imbalances & impurities from their pool quality. For example, did you know that not all pool Chlorine is the same? There are five types!

1. Sodium hypochlorite,

2. Calcium hypochlorite,

3. Lithium hypochlorite,

4. Trichlor, and

5. Dichlor.

Each Chlorine type has a different purpose based on what kind of pool you have and the application you’re using it for.

If you want to learn more about the different chlorines, keep reading below, otherwise, come in to and take advantage of the knowledge and extensive training from the team at Poolside Beaconsfield and we’ll make sure your pool is balanced.

Skip to Why is all this important?

Sodium hypochlorite is liquid chlorine, great for killing algae quickly, though is used up just as fast. Calcium hypochlorite is the powdered chlorine most used for pool shock & even day to day use.

The active constituent of chlorine changes from brand to brand and can range from 400gms/kgs for day-to-day use up to 600gms/kg for shock treatments.

These chlorines are also un-stabilised, meaning it does not contain any Cyanuric Acid which slows the chlorine from being broken down by the sun.

Trichlor and Dichlor are stabilized Chlorine, meaning they do contain Cyanuric acid for sun protection.

Trichlor has a high Chlorine saturation and affects a pool’s pH and Dichlor, on the other hand, has a neutral pH level, not affecting the pH of the pool. It also has a high Chlorine saturation, dissolves quickly, and is great for spas.

Trichlor & Dichlor may seem like the way to go… However, you can’t keep putting stabilised chlorine into the pool as this will increase your cyanuric acid (stabiliser) level, and lead to further issues.

Why is this important?

Children and adults with sensitive skin are vulnerable to the effects of over chlorination, changes in pH and other effects of improper pool chemicals.

If you put the same weight of chlorine into a pool or spa and it has a higher level of active chlorine, you’ll run the risk of sore eyes, itchy skin, difficulty breathing, discoloured clothing, reduced equipment life and the list goes on.

What other chemicals are different?

Other cheap chemicals that can cause more problems than just chlorine are algaecides, minerals and salt.

ALGAECIDES

It’s very common to find staining due to copper in algaecides. If you pick up an algaecide from a large retailer, they mostly likely won’t ask you what algae you’re treating, they won’t test your copper levels in your pool or check what equipment you must ensure there are no issues with putting that in your pool.

Using a copper algaecide regularly will eventually build up your copper levels and you’ll have staining occur. From there you’ll need to treat the stains and continually add a product to keep the stains from coming back.

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of copper staining.

SALT

The salt you can buy from the large retailers is what is not good enough for pool shops. This poor/low quality pool salt contains dirt, fillers and even metal shavings. This all goes into your pool and then stays there while you swim and can cause algae problems and staining.

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of salt staining.

MINERALS

Don’t overpay for minerals when your lager retails have a mostly salt content, mixed in with a little Magnesium and possibly some other minerals and passing off as ‘Minerals’. Poolside Beaconsfield have a guaranteed 70% Magnesium content in our bags of minerals, so when you buy Magnesium, you’re getting Magnesium, not a bit of everything else!

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of you minerals.

Overall, you can take a chance with cheaper chemicals from the large retailers, however, if you want you use less chemicals, use the right chemicals makes healthy water to swim in.

How to remove pool stains

In this article we will help you work out what type of stain you have, how it occurred, how to treat it and then how to stop it from coming back.

Essentially there are 2 types of stains, Organic Stains and Inorganic Stains caused by heavy metals such as iron or copper.

Organic Stains:

Organic stains in a pool are caused by leaves, algae, or other natural matter sitting on the pool surface. To find out if a stain is organic, you can generally identify if you've had leaves sitting on the bottom of your pool for a while.

Pour some granular chlorine on it and leave for a few minutes to see if it lightens or disappears. If it does, then the stain is organic. To remove organic stains, you need to raise the Free Chlorine up to 5ppm and brush it often, ideally every day. you can also use specific stain removers that contain citric acid.

Pro Tips:

• Remove any automatic cleaners from the pool (the high chlorine isn't good for it!)

• When pouring the granular chlorine on the stain, pour it down your pool pole with the insert removed to accurately land it on the spot you want!

• Check with us to calculate your shock dosage for the treatment.

To stop organic stains from coming back, you can try the following steps:

• Use a Robotic Cleaner to remove leaves & scrub your surface regularly.

• Trim back any nearby trees or bushes to reduce the amount of organic matter falling into the pool.

• Oxidise your pool water to break down organic matter before it can cause stains.

• Use a pool cover to prevent leaves and debris from falling into the pool when it's not in use.

Inorganic Stains:

Inorganic stains in a pool are caused by metals in the water, such as iron or copper.

Iron stains are rare in to come from the town water supply, though can be quite high in those on bore water. To find out if a stain is caused by iron, bring a test into our shop and we can test specifically for high iron levels, this is not a common test so you will need to ask us if you believe you have an iron staining problem. You can remove iron stains with specific stain removers that contain ascorbic acid.

Copper stains, on the other hand, are often caused by over use of copper based algaecides, low quality chemicals such as salt & minerals, mineral systems, ionizers, or other “natural” sanitizers. These can be removed by putting dry acid in a sock and rubbing it on the stain.

Once the stains have been removed from the surface, you will need to add a dose of Pool Magnet Plus or Metal Go to keep the metals “in solution” so it doesn’t form back on the surface.

These products (sequestrants) work by attaching to metal particles in the water, preventing them from sticking to the pool surface and causing stains. However, sequestrants break down over time and require regular additions to maintain their effectiveness in keeping iron or copper particles sequestered and preventing staining.

*There is no practical way to remove iron or copper from the water short of replacing the water with new water that doesn’t have any iron or copper in it.

Pro Tip:

• Drop the pool sock full of dry acid onto the stain & move into position with the pool pole, then leave on until all the dry acid is dissolved moving occasionally.

To prevent inorganic stains from coming back, you can try the following steps:

• Use a metal sequestrant regularly (every 3-4 months) to keep the metals 'in solution' prevent metals from depositing as stains.

• Test your pool water regularly to make sure the pH and total alkalinity are within the recommended ranges.

• Avoid using copper-based algaecides or other products that may add more copper to the pool water.

• Only purchase high quality pool chemicals.

• Consider using a water softener or filtration system to remove metals from the fill water.

• Check your pool heater or plumbing for any copper erosion or corrosion and replace or repair as necessary.

By following these steps, you can effectively treat and prevent organic and inorganic stains in your pool, keeping it looking clean and clear all season long.

Common causes and colours associated with stains.

CPR signage & Pool Safety

Knowing CPR (Cardiopulmonary resuscitation) can save lives and can help to reduce serious water related incidents.

Whilst only some regions legislate the requirement for CPR signage to be placed near or in the immediate vicinity of the pool or spa environment. We recommend that every pool and spa owner display one prominently near the pool (ideally near the step area as this is the most likely place a rescue & resuscitation will take place).

CPR signage for Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation follows guidelines prescribed by the Australian Resuscitation Council.

The Basic steps of Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation are D-R-S-A-B-C-D

• DANGERS - Check for danger (hazards/risks/safety)

• RESPONSIVENESS - Check for response (if unresponsive)

• SEND - Send for help

• AIRWAY - Open the airway.

• BREATHING - Check breathing (if not breathing / abnormal breathing)

• CPR - Start CPR (give 30 chest compressions followed by two breaths)

• DEFIBRILLATION - Attach an Automated External Defibrillator (AED) as soon as available and follow the prompts.

Recommendations

The Australian and New Zealand Committee on Resuscitation (ANZCOR) makes the following recommendations:

1. Rescuers must start CPR if the person is unresponsive and not breathing normally.

2. Bystander CPR should be actively encouraged.

3. Compression-to-ventilation ratio be 30:2 for all ages.

4. All rescuers perform chest compressions for all who are not breathing normally. Rescuers who are trained and willing to give rescue breaths are encouraged to do so.

5. Chest compressions should be provided at a rate of approximately 100 - 120 /min.

6. Rescuers should aim to minimise interruptions to chest compressions.

*Please note this is general information and does not substitute for proper First Aid training.

Pool & Spa Registration, Barrier Inspections & Compliance.

All swimming pools and spas in Victoria must be registered with the applicable local council. All pools & spas capable of containing water greater than 300mm (30cm) must also have a compliant safety barrier (fences & gates) to restrict access to the pool area by young children (under the age of five).

To comply your barriers with the relevant standard, you must have a registered barrier inspector, come to your property, inspect your barriers and you’ll need to make any recommended repairs advised by the inspector, before obtaining a Certificate of Compliance, which then needs to be presented to your local council also.

You can use these checklists to get a head start on your compliance, however, these are NOT a substitute for a Certificate of Compliance.

• Checklist 1 (for pools and spas installed before 8 April 1991)

• Checklist 2 (for pools and spas installed between 8 April 1991 and 30 April 2010)

• Checklist 3 (for pools and spas installed from 1 May 2010)

Inspection & lodgement deadlines

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 July 1994 and 1 May 2010, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2022

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 May 2010 and 31 May 2020, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2023

For more information on Pool & Spa Barrier compliance, please contact us.

References

https://resus.org.au/the-arc-guidelines/ (Section 8)
https://www.spasa.com.au/pool-and-spa-owners/faqs-tips-and-tricks/pool-and-spa-safety-rules
https://www.vba.vic.gov.au/consumers/swimming-pools/inspections-and-compliance

How to make your pool sparkle

How do you clear cloudy pool water and make it sparkle? There are a few things that all work together to keep your water crystal clear including your water chemistry & filtration times.

Here are our top tips to keep your pool water sparkling!

Check your Water level

If it’s dropped below the middle of your skimmer box, give it a top-up with the hose. Filling it halfway up your skimmer will allow for proper circulation, which helps your filter remove impurities from the water!

quick Filter checkup

Getting sparkling pool water all season can be as easy as making sure your filtration system is operating and continues to run at its peak. An average pool should run for 6-8 hours per day in the summer, the pool filter works continuously to remove debris, contaminants, and other impurities from the water.

Similar to a vacuum cleaner after a while the build-up of waste in your filter will affect the flow. Poor flow results in poor circulation, which can then lead to cloudy water and algae outbreaks!

In preparation for summer, give your filter a checkup. This involves removing any hidden debris build-up and then giving it a clean with the recommended method for your filtration system.

If you have a sand filter, you’ll need to backwash your filter to flush out contaminants. During the swimming season, we recommend backwashing a sand or Activated Filter Media® (AFM) filter when the pressure gauge reads 10 psi above the normal operating level. Sand should be replaced every five years. AFM®, however, is expected to last the lifetime of your filter!

If you have a cartridge filter, remove the cartridges and check every few weeks and hose them down when necessary... you'll need to replace the cartridges every two to three years.

After giving your filter a thorough clean, we suggest adding a dose of BioGuard Filter Brite®. It will remove any remaining scale or waste deposits while also sanitising the filter media or cartridge. This product is suitable for all filtration systems and can also be used when you give your filter its annual deep clean.

Every filtration system is slightly different. If you need any assistance with your filter maintenance, give us a call or use the button below to request a service!

Test your water

Now that you’ve rejuvenated your filter, the next thing to tick off your list is water balance! We can test your pool or spa water using state-of-the-art computerised equipment to make sure you get the right balance. Once we've tested the water we can advise you on you'll need to correct any chemical imbalances.

We then recommend testing your water every week at home and in-store with us once a month. Staying on top of your water balance is the secret to saving money and achieving sparkling water all Summer!

This way we'll be able to keep your water safe, prevent damage to your surfaces and equipment, and allows your pool products to work most efficiently!

3-Step Program Kit

Tailored just for you, the 3-Step Program Kit will contain the following:

1. A sanitiser for healthy water

2. An oxidiser for sparkling water

3. An algaecide for clean water

Getting the sparkle

Now let's get that extra sparkle!

An oxidiser is a product that works to remove and destroy swimmer wastes and organic contaminants in your water, keeping it crystal clear! We suggest BioGuard Lite® as an easy-to-use oxidiser that allows swimmers back in the water an hour after treatment.

If you're ready to take your pool water to the next level, you can also add a weekly dose of BioGuard Pool Complete™. It’s the final touch for any pool maintenance as its 3-in-1 formula keeps water super clear, prevents scum line build-up, and removes phosphates.

If you follow these simple steps, your pool water will sparkle all season!

Got questions?… Call us on (03) 9769 3252

Heavy Rain in Victoria affecting swimming pools

Large amounts of dust and dirt can be brought in with the rain when the winds come from the north. This dirt causes a few issues for pools ranging from dirty water, chemical imbalances & high phosphate levels that can encourage algae growth, along with the additional water going into the pool and potential overflowing issues.

• Green Pool Treatment

• Brown Pool Treatment

Raindrops form by water vapour attaching to microscopic dust, dirt, pollen and algae spores present in the air, the combine together until they’re big enough to fall as rain. It’s these spores and other material in the raindrops that get carried into the pool.

Additionally, when rainwater comes off your landscape or deck, you also have an added source of water and debris to deal with which can change your chemical levels, as well as bring more contaminants such as dirt and debris into the pool.

Heavy rains don't dilute the chemicals in your pool as an inch of rainwater added to a typical 50,000 litre pool only increases the amount of water by only about 1.5%, meaning dilution is not usually an issue. It's more about what comes into the pool with the rain.

So, what to do?

Poolside Beaconsfield owner Grant had his pool affected by the dirty rain

The first thing to do is to work out how bad the water is... If you only have a light dusting of dirt on the bottom of the pool, our suggestion is to switch the filtration system to manual and run for 24 hours with your cleaner attached, If you have a robotic cleaner this will help even further by providing additional filtration and keeping your skimmer baskets free for maximum water flow through your filter. Then have your water balanced and backwash/clean the filter as required. If this doesn’t clear the pool or it’s very brown and you can't see the bottom, you'll most likely need to do a full 'floccing' treatment (read the brown pool tips below).

The extra debris added to the pool with rainfall can affect the pool water chemistry. For this reason, it is important that you test your water after it rains and re-balance where necessary. Bring in a water sample for us to check your phosphate levels as it is important to keep these low, otherwise you run the risk of an algae problem occurring.

HOW TO LOWER POOL LEVEL

After the rain has subsided, you may need to drain the excess water from the pool, to allow for proper skimming of the pool surface. If your filter has a multiport valve, follow these steps:

1. Turn off the pump,

2. Change the valve handle from filter onto WASTE (not backwash!),

3. Open any valves on the waste line,

4. Disconnect any suction cleaners & vacuum plates,

5. Then turn the pump back on to lower the water level,

6. Once the water level is halfway up the skimmer box,

7. Turn the pump off,

8. Return the multiport valve to FILTER,

9. Reconnect the cleaner and

10. Turn the pump back on (or set the timer to auto).

*do not do this if your pool requires floccing, you'll need all the water in the pool when vacuuming to waste.

Green Pool Treatment Guide

The solution is to make sure that the rate at which the algae in your pool are being killed is faster than the rate at which they are reproducing.

This means raising the sanitiser (chlorine) level up much higher than the ideal range, balancing the pH and adding an appropriate algaecide, clarifier and/or oxidiser. By adding these chemicals and running the filtration system for a minimum of 24 hours, this should return the pool to crystal clear again.

If you require help with any of these techniques please come into the store and speak with one of our experienced team or book your service online below.

BROWN POOL TREATMENT GUIDE

With very heavy rains, airborne dust, runoff from surrounding areas of the pool can add large amounts of dirt, soil and even mud into a pool. This will turn the pool into a messy brown soup with the inability to filter out.

This is where a floccing agent is used to bind the suspended particles together and drop them to the floor of the pool to make it easier to remove by vacuuming directly to waste. This requires a lot of water so keeping your pool water level as high as possible is important.

Turn your pump and filter off & remove any cleaners from the pool. If you have any chlorine on hand, add 5 x your normal dose around the pool. You can contact us to clean up your pool for you, alternatively you can come instore with a water sample and pick up the required chemicals and instructions.

Pool & Spa Fences & Gates

Update: 11 October 2021

New compliance certificate dates were deemed necessary to ensure that pool inspections can be done in an orderly and timely manner during the pandemic.

Compliance certificate must be lodged by:

• 1 June 2022 if pool/spa construction date = On or before 30 June 1994

• 1 June 2023 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 July 1994 until 30 April 2010

• 1 June 2024 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 May 2010 until 31 October 2020

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Every pool & spa must have a barrier and every child must be supervised. It only takes a few minutes for pool owners to check that their pool fences and gates, including latches and hinges, are in good working order. This simple routine done regularly could save the life of a child.

Pool and spa fences and barriers are required by legislation for any swimming pool or spa in excess of 300mm (30cm) in depth and must be maintained for the life of the pool or spa, this includes keeping the area around the safety barrier, free from climbable objects or plants that can be used to gain access to the pool area.

The key elements of the relevant Australian Standards are designed to restrict access by unsupervised young children, especially those under 5 years of age, to the swimming pool area.

*IMPORTANT: This is general safety information, Please make sure you are compliant with your local council and State govt. regulations.

SAFETY BARRIERS

• Essentially, a safety barrier can be made of any material that has a reasonable life span when exposed to the likely conditions of weather, pool chemicals, pollution, decay, insects, salt water spray, impacts, etc.

• Safety barriers must have an effective perpendicular minimum height of 1.2 metres.

• Existing boundary fences can be used as a safety barrier provided that they are well maintained, at least 1800mm high measured on the inside of the barrier to a solid finished surface and have no climbable elements within 900mm measured from the top of the inside of the fence.

GATES

• These must open outward only (away from the pool area) and have an effective perpendicular minimum height of 1.2 metres.

• They must return to the closed position and engage the latch automatically from any position and not re-open without using the manual release mechanism.

• The latch release must be at least 1.5 metres above ground level unless it

  • (i) is inside the fence

  • (ii) can only be reached over or through a fence higher than 1.2 metres or

  • (iii) is 300mm below the fence top (no hand hole) or at least 150mm away from the edge of any hand hole opening.

• Latch releases less than 1.5 metres above ground level must be shielded so that no opening greater than 10mm is closer than 450mm.

• Any hand hole shall be at least 1.2 metres above ground level.

WALLS

• External walls of a building can be used as swimming pool barriers so long as they do not contain any doors opening into the pool area and windows are treated to prevent access to the pool area.

DOORS & WINDOWS

• Doors from a dwelling are prohibited from opening into a swimming pool area. The only exception is for doors opening directly to an indoor swimming pool or spa.

• Acceptable window fixing treatments are as follows:

• Those totally enclosed by screw fixed security screens that can only be removed by the use of a tool

• Those that are fixed so the window cannot open more than 100mm max

• Those with a lowest opening panel not less than 1.8 above the ground level to the pool area

• Those that have firm fixed metal fly-wire installed that is fixed to the building with fasteners that can only be removed by the use of a tool

We have a number of contacts for pool safety inspections, professional licensed fence builders as well as many gate, hinge and latch spare parts. Please contact us if you’re unsure if your pool fences & gates are up to standard.

NEW VICTORIAN SWIMMING POOL & SPA SAFETY LAWS

On 1 December 2019, new laws to improve swimming pool and spa safety came into effect in Victoria. It is now mandatory for owners of land where a swimming pool or spa is located to register their pool or spa with the relevant council.

Owners are also required to have their safety barriers inspected and to lodge a certificate of barrier compliance with their council. If a safety barrier is not compliant, it is the owner’s responsibility to make the barrier compliant.

New Swimming Pool and Spa Safety laws in Victoria

Update: 11 October 2021

New compliance certificate dates were deemed necessary to ensure that pool inspections can be done in an orderly and timely manner during the pandemic.

Compliance certificate must be lodged by:

• 1 June 2022 if pool/spa construction date = On or before 30 June 1994

• 1 June 2023 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 July 1994 until 30 April 2010

• 1 June 2024 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 May 2010 until 31 October 2020

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Pool Barrier Compliance

As of 1 December 2019, it will be mandatory for owners of land where a swimming pool or spa is located, to register their pool or spa with their relevant council, have their safety barriers inspected and to lodge a certificate of barrier compliance with their local council.

Key points

• New laws for the registration, inspection and compliance of pool barriers in effect as at 1 December 2019.

• Pools & Spas must be registered with local councils by 1st November 2020.

• Inspections & lodgement due by 1st June 2021 *pool age decides the due date.

• Poolside Beaconsfield will assist with all compliance requirements.

Registration of Pools and Spas

Pool and spa owners now have until 1st November 2020 to register their pool or spa with their local council.

The total maximum fee that council can charge for pools constructed prior to 1 June 2020 is $79.08

Pools and spas constructed after 1 June 2020 must be registered within 30 days after issue of occupancy permit or certificate of final inspection.

If you do not register your pool by 1 November 2020, you will be subject to fines/penalties.

Local Councils for swimming pool and spa registrations

Casey Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Casey Council
Cardinia Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Cardinia
Knox Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Knox Council
Greater Dandenong - Click to Register your pool or spa with Greater Dandenong Council

Once your swimming pool or spa has been registered, you need to arrange an inspection of the safety barrier to determine if the barrier is compliant with the applicable barrier standard.

An inspection of your pool or spa barrier can only be carried out by:

• a registered building surveyor

• a registered building inspector

• a municipal building surveyor

Pool safety barriers

All swimming pools and spas capable of containing water greater than 300mm (30cm) must have a compliant safety barrier to restrict access to the pool area by young children (under the age of five).

Barriers are required for:

• in-ground pools and spas

• above-ground pools and spas, including relocatable and inflatable pools that are capable of holding more than 300mm (30cm) of water and require assembly on site.

• indoor pools and spas

• bathing and wading pools capable of containing more than 300 mm (30cm) of water.

As a pool or spa owner, you have an obligation to maintain the operation of your swimming pool or spa barrier to prevent access to the pool or spa.

The following checklists will help you assess the safety of your barrier. The checklists are based on the relevant barrier standard associated with the date that the pool or spa was installed.

• Checklist 1 (for pools and spas installed before 8 April 1991)

• Checklist 2 (for pools and spas installed between 8 April 1991 and 30 April 2010)

• Checklist 3 (for pools and spas installed from 1 May 2010)

If the inspector determines that your safety barrier complies with the applicable barrier standard, they will issue a certificate of barrier compliance. As the owner of the land with the pool or spa, you then need to lodge the certificate with your council. You must do this within 30 days of receiving the certificate. Pool owners will have 60 days to bring their pools into compliance if an inspector identifies any non-compliant safety concerns.

The fee for lodging a certificate of pool and spa barrier compliance will be up to a maximum of $20.50, with certificates of compliance being required to be lodged once every four years. Hefty fines will apply for pool and spa owners who do not register their pool or spa.

Inspection and lodgement of the certificate of barrier compliance for pools and spas:

• For pools and spas constructed on or before 30 June 1994, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2021

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 July 1994 and 1 May 2010, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2022

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 May 2010 and 31 May 2020, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2023

For pools and spas constructed on or after 1 June 2020, a certificate of barrier compliance is due within 30 days of occupancy permit or certificate of final inspection. This certificate must accompany an application for registration. The next certificate of compliance is due four years after registration.

Poolside Beaconsfield will be registering to have in-house, trained inspectors as soon as the Victorian Building Authority announces further information and training centre locations are announced.

Understanding your chemical balance

Keeping your pool & spa chemically balanced regularly will not only ensure your water is clear and healthy to swim in, but it will also save you money by making your pool chemicals work together, rather than 'chasing' the perfect balance.

If your water is correctly balanced, this means that the water’s chemical demands have been met. However, if chemical levels are out of the ideal range, the water can affect other areas of your pool or spa. For example, it could seek the missing elements it needs by attacking or depositing additional elements onto the surface & equipment which can lead to more expensive problems later if not corrected.

Also, if not properly balanced, the pool’s sanitising process (killing bacteria and algae) can be impaired.

The main 'variables' in your water balance are…
(click to skip to the in-depth explanation section)

pH - Potential Hydrogen
pH ranges from 0-14 with 7.0 being neutral and values below 7 being acidic. The ideal range for your pH is between 7.4 - 7.6 for pools and 7.6 - 7.8 for spas. When your pH is within these ranges your, sanitiser (chlorine) most effective and therefore keeping your pool free of algae.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 200 for raising the pH
Lo’N’Slo for lowering pH

TA - Total Alkalinity
The ideal value of Total Alkalinity is 80 - 125ppm in pools and 100 -120ppm in spas. Keeping your Total Alkalinity within these ranges will stabilise your pH levels. When your TA is low, your pH will fluctuate a lot and therefore reduce the effectiveness of your sanitiser and can cause mild skin & eye irritation.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 100 for raising Total Alkalinity
Lo’N’Slo for lowering Total Alkalinity

Ca - Calcium Hardness
This is a measure of the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. Depending on your pool surface, we recommend a range between 200 - 250ppm. When the Calcium level is too low, the water will draw calcium from the surface of the pool causing deposits to form. Similarly if the calcium levels are too high, this will form hard, unsightly deposits on the surface of the pool and equipment.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 300 for increasing calcium hardness

Stabiliser - Cyanuric Acid
Cyanuric acid or, as it’s more commonly known as ‘pool sunscreen' is used as a chlorine stabiliser in swimming pools to reduce chlorine loss due to UV rays (sunlight) if there is no pool cover. Levels should be maintained at approx. 30 - 100ppm. When your stabiliser levels are low, your sanitiser will not last as long in the water and therefore you won’t get effective algae control. If levels become too high, this can block the sanitiser from being effective also.

Chemicals we use
Stabiliser prevents chlorine loss due to sunlight

*Values are approximate ranges that are dependent on your pool/spa type, other balances and factors.

For more information about your pool water balance, speak to one of our knowledgeable staff by calling us on 9769 3252 or ask us a question on our Facebook page HERE.

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Technical in-depth chemical balance explanations.

pH

The pH reading tells us whether the water is acidic or alkaline and incorrect levels may cause itchy skin and red eyes. The pH level ranges from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Values below 7.0 are acidic. However, what is commonly overlooked is the understanding that pH is probably the most important factor to be considered when balancing swimming pool water.

The Australian Standard for pool water is between the range 7.0 to 7.8 with us recommending 7.4 to 7.6 depending on your pool/spa type. The pH level can change after heavy rain, heavy pool usage, topping up the pool, or adding chemicals, which in turn affects sanitising and therefore should be checked and adjusted frequently.

The effect of pH variation is most noticeable in the effectiveness of your chlorine to sanitise your pool. A typical domestic pool will aim for a chlorine level of about 1-3ppm.

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TECHNICAL: Free chlorine is a measure of both Hypochlorous Acid (HOCL) and Hypochlorite ions (OCL-). The Hypochlorous Acid is the active part of the free chlorine which does the oxidising and destruction of contaminants. The Hypochlorite ion is inactive and can be considered the “reserve” that converts to Hypochlorous Acid as required.

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When your pool has a pH of 7, the free chlorine has 75% Hypochlorous Acid (active) ions. If your pool has a pH of 7.8, the free chlorine has just 28% Hypochlorous acid (active) ions, making your sanitiser much less effective.

Therefore a swimming pool with a pH of 7 and a free chlorine level of just 0.5ppm has the same sanitising effect as a pool with a pH of 7.8 and a free chlorine level of 1.35ppm.

This is why the pH of your pool is really important.

T.A - Total Alkalinity

This is a measure of bi-carbonates, carbonates, and hydroxides in the pool. We usually suggest 80ppm to 125ppm is the accepted range, depending on the other balance factors and pool/spa types. We can help you find the recommended level for your pool.

Low Total Alkalinity will lead to erosion of pool surfaces and corrosion of equipment. It will also cause the pH levels to be very unstable so small additions of other chemicals can result in major shifts in pH which is sometimes known as “pH bounce”. A low Total Alkalinity can also cause mild skin irritation and itchiness.

Adding BioGuard Balance Pak 100 will RAISE the Total Alkalinity. Hydrochloric acid will LOWER the Total Alkalinity and the pH so these two chemical components need to be adjusted together.

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TECH TIP: Hydrochloric acid must always be diluted (one part acid into ten parts of water) before being added to the pool and always add acid to water, never water to acid to avoid splashing onto yourself, others or surroundings.

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When topping up the pool, depending on the on the Total Alkalinity of the top-up water and the amount of topping up, this will affect the Total Alkalinity of the pool water.

Calcium Hardness

This is a measure of the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. Depending on your pool surface, we recommend a range between 200ppm and 250ppm for a typical concrete, marbelite, or pebble pool. Calcium Hardness cannot usually be tested with the standard test kit so you will need to bring in a water sample to us for testing.

In most pools where calcium levels are not naturally high, you really only need to test a few times each year unless you are using Calcium Hypochlorite to sanitise your pool. This chemical raises Calcium Hardness levels, so more frequent testing and balancing may be necessary.

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TECH TIP: When adding chemicals we suggest increasing in small amounts, running the filter and testing the effect after several hours to avoid overdosing or encountering other problems.

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If the correct balance of Calcium Hardness is not maintained, just like with Total Alkalinity, low levels cause corrosion to the pool surfaces and equipment and high levels will lead to scale formation. Use BioGuard Balance Pak 300 to increase your calcium hardness levels in your water.

Cyanuric Acid - Stabiliser

Cyanuric acid or as its more commonly known as ‘pool sunscreen' is used as a chlorine stabiliser in swimming pools to reduce chlorine loss due to UV rays (sunlight) if there is no pool cover. It should be added to the pool and maintained at approx. 30-100ppm. It binds itself to free chlorine and then releases it slowly to minimise degradation by UV light, extending the time needed to deplete each dose of sanitiser.

If the levels become too low, the effectiveness of your sanitation will be reduced because the free chlorine is being broken down by the UV light, which leads to the potential increase of algae growth.

On the flip side, if you regularly use powdered stabilized chlorine to sanitise your pool, your stabiliser levels can get too high and this can effectively block your sanitiser from being effective.

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TECHNICAL: The higher the level of Cyanuric acid the more it reduce the effectiveness of free chlorine. To offset the loss of sanitisation power of free chlorine in stabilised outdoor pools the minimum concentration of free chlorine must be kept between 2ppm and 3ppm (ppm= parts per million).

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Interestingly, Cyanuric Acid is not consumed or lost from swimming pool water unless due to splashing, backwashing or introduction of freshwater, these are the only times that you’ll need to add more Cyanuric acid.

*Values are approximate ranges that are dependent on your pool/spa type, other balances and factors.

Is your pool ready for Summer?

Make the most of your pool/spa this Summer with an easy 4-step program that will help put your water & equipment in good stead for the Summer and keep it looking great! Plus, combined with regular water testing, balancing and maintenance will ensure your pool it’s always ready to go during the hottest time of the year.

If you would like a personalised pool maintenance plan, head in-store and we can advise on the easiest and most cost-effective way to maintain your water this Summer.

Step 1: Remove your Pool Cover

If you haven’t already, the warmer weather means it’s time to take off your cover so you can jump in whenever you’re ready. You will need to drain off any water, dirt, and debris that has collected on the cover, and try to not let any go back into the water as these contaminants not only look unsightly, lots of debris can promote algae growth.

Once you’ve pulled the cover off, give it a good clean with the hose and store it away from the sun which will increase its life.

Step 2: Check the Water Level

If your water level is low, give it a top-up from the hose. Ensure the level is at least halfway up the skimmer opening to allow for proper circulation.

Step 3: Get your Water Tested

Once you’ve topped up your water levels, allow your pump & filter to circulate the water for 24-48 hours for a pool, or 4-6 hours for a spa. Fill a water sample bottle (at elbow depth), then visit us for a state-of-the-art water test and grab the required chemicals to balance.

If you’d prefer to undertake the water testing yourself, we recommend using the Biolab 6-in-1 Test Kit or Biolab Test Strips that we stock in-store. Healthy pool water has a free chlorine level of between 1-3ppm and a pH of 7.4-7.6 (*this will differ for fibreglass pools & spas).

Step 4: Check the Pump, Filter, and Skimmer Basket

Give all your pool equipment a once-over and make sure everything is in good working order. If you come across any damage or something that just doesn’t look right, take a photo of it and come in to see us for assistance, alternatively, you can book one of our service technicians to come to you.

We also recommend using BioGuard Filter Brite™ to clean and sanitise your filter. It restores the efficiency of your filter by removing scale and rust deposits, greases, oils, and organic wastes. It will also extend the life of your filter!

Following this simple maintenance program at the beginning of summer will ensure your pool water is healthy and sparkling over the warmer months.

If you’d like to know more, or just need some expert advice, please don’t hesitate to contact us in person, on the phone, or online.

Spring Checkup

Now is the time to carry out the Spring checkup on your pool. This will not only ensure it is ready for swimming when the weather heats up enough but also have a good opening balance for the upcoming Summer.

Obviously, every pool is different given the varying sizes, surfaces, filter,s and chlorinator types but the majority of steps are the same. By following our helpful tips, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a clean pool as the weather heats up.

Things you’ll need:

• Water test kit

• Cleaning Equipment (pool pole, brush, leaf rake, hose, vacuum head)

• Balancing chemicals

Step 1: Test and chemically balance the water:

If you have a pool cover, you should remove it and test the pool water using a testing kit (or bring a sample into the shop). Give the pool cover a sweep before removing it so the leaves don’t fall into the water. Ideally, you’ll be testing all your levels, although the main ones to check (and ideal levels) are;

• Chlorine - 1.5 (Cover on) - 3ppm (No cover/cover off)

• pH - 7.4 - 7.6 (Lower for fibreglass surfaces)

• Alkalinity - 80 - 120ppm

Step 2: Check your filtration system:

Checking your pump and filter for cracks, leaks, and noisy operation is important when you start to ramp up the hours of operation. Here is a quick checklist for your equipment.

Pump - check for leaks from underneath the pump (mechanical seal) and make sure the bearings aren’t too noisy. Clean the pump basket and check the pump lid for cracks. Ensure the lid o’ring is clean and lubricated.

Filter - check for leaks at the tank, collar, or through the multiport valve, and check the pressure is in the ideal range (backwash/clean if required)

Chlorinator - Check for leaks at the cell, clean any calcium build-up off the cell (clean with 1 part acid:10 parts water mix), check the terminals are in good condition and free of corrosion, check cell o’ring is clean and lubricated and the timer is holding the correct time.

Step 3: Inventory pool chemicals:

Do a quick check of your pool cleaning products and other chemicals to ensure that they aren’t out of date and that you have a good supply of critical items. Chlorine (liquid or powdered), Hydrochloric Acid, Algaecide, pH Buffer & Salt/Minerals (if required). Having a few extras on hand is always a good idea for any extreme weather events or just so you have the ability to quickly treat any imbalances that arise through extra usage.

Step 4: Check over your cleaning equipment:

• Is your pool pole (and wishbone clip) in good condition? Does it extend all the way? Does it lock?

• Are there any holes in your leaf rake (scoop)? Is it cracked or broken?

• Check your pool brush to make sure the bristles aren’t coming out.

• Do you have all the wheels on your vacuum head? Does it attach to the pool pole securely?

• Are there any holes in your vacuum hose?

Step 5: Start the pump, then clean & shock the pool:

Once you’ve got everything you need, it’s time to clean the pool! Start the pump and add the pool chemicals that are required to balance. Starting the season it is a good idea to give the pool a chlorine shock. Manually vacuum the bottom of the pool and brush any step areas to remove built-up dust. Empty the skimmer baskets and run the pool pump for at least six hours.

“It’s cheaper to maintain your pool than treat it when it goes bad!”

To get the most enjoyment out of your pool this season, make sure you keep it clean and free from debris and make sure your chemical balances are within safe limits. Adjust your water balance and filtering times as needed to accommodate for more rainfall, swimmers or hotter temperatures.

By taking these small steps each week to care for your pool, it will be easier to maintain in the long run, and more enjoyable for the whole family as well.

How to fix green pool water

How to fix a green pool? This is the number one complaint/question from pool owners which can be an easy fix if you get onto it quickly.

To treat your pool, you will need to use both an algaecide; a product specially designed to treat the algae present in your pool (plus prevent future growth), as well as a shock dose of a sanitiser such as chlorine.

Follow our advice below or contact us to work out which treatment & products are best suited for your pool.

Firstly, skim and vacuum your pool to remove as much debris as possible. Leaves and other debris break down into organic waste, which the algae then feeds on. The more organic waste you can remove now, the less ‘work’ the chlorine has to do, and the less chlorine you will have to add later.

Watch the green pool clean up video below

Once you’ve done that, you can test and then treat your pool water. We recommend bringing in a sample to us before adding any chemicals.

*TIP: Don’t add any chemicals before you take your water sample, this will give us a baseline reading to adjust from. It takes any guesswork out of the equations and ensures you don’t waste any chemicals.

The next step is to treat your pool. The most effective way to rid your pool of algae is to do a shock treatment and add algaecide.

As a guide, we recommend using BioGuard Burn Out Extreme as the shock treatment, in conjunction with BioGuard MSA Extreme as the algaecide.

Assess your pool

Assess the amount of shock treatment and algaecide required based on your pool’s colour using the guide below.

Light green:

If you can easily see the bottom of the pool though just notice a slight ‘green tinge’ to the pool water. This indicates the beginning stages of an algae outbreak. You will need to add one bag of BioGuard Burn Out Extreme to every 50,000L of pool water + the required dose of the recommended algaecide.

Green or dark green:

The bottom of the pool is hard to see, though you can still see the steps. This typically indicates a heavy level of algae in the water and will require double the shock treatment. To do this, you will need two treatments of BioGuard Burn Out Extreme to every 50,000L of pool water + the required dose of the recommended algaecide.

Black-green water:

You cant see the steps. This signifies an extreme level of algae in the water, and at this stage, you will need professional help.

IMPORTANT TIPS

You will need to run your pool filter and pump continually during the treatment. The longer you are able to run your pump and filter the sooner your pool will return to its sparkling best.

Regular brushing during treatment is critical for every algae problem, as it greatly improves chemical efficiency in killing algae spores.

Is your water going cloudy after treatment?

Don’t worry, this is totally normal! The goal of the shock treatment is to kill algae (which turns it grey/white) which then makes your water look cloudy. The cloudiness will filter out, however, we suggest adding a clarifier to help speed up the process.

Simply add a BioGuard Super Clear Clarifying Tab™ to clear away cloudiness and get your pool sparkling again!

We believe that prevention is better than cure. To prevent algae growth in the first place, we recommend adding a BioGuard Algaecide to your pool water once a week.

Winter Water Balance

With the colder weather, shorter days, and limited use of the swimming pool, we tend to forget that the pool still requires correct chemical balance to remain clean and healthy. Excessive chlorine levels can cause unwanted degradation of pool covers, skimmer baskets, and pool cleaners.

Keeping your eye on the chemical balance each month will not only keep your water clear, but it will also prolong the life of your equipment!

Here are some tips to help maintain a safe and correct chemical throughout the Winter period:

1. Chlorine Levels

Ideal ranges - covered pool = 0.5 - 1ppm, uncovered pool 1 - 3ppm

If you have not reduced your running times, or have a pool cover over your pool, you will need to regularly check your chlorine levels to ensure it does not get too high. Excessive Chlorine levels can result in the deterioration of your expensive pool blankets and automatic pool cleaners. It can also have an effect on the pool surface!

It can affect your pH - the higher the chlorine level, the higher the potential for an unhealthy pool. This can cause a raft of other issues, making it more expensive to correct when the weather warms up and you want to use the pool.

2. pH

Ideal ranges - 7.4 - 7.6

It is important to maintain the correct balance of your pH. If your pH is either too high or too low, it can affect the other chemical readings in the water. A high pH makes your Chlorine ineffective and allows scaling to build up on the surface of your pool surface and salt cells. A very low pH can burn off the chlorine before it can sanitise the water.

3. Phosphates

Ideal range - below .1

In Winter, you'll probably be taking advantage of running shorter filtration times, saving the wear and tear on equipment and lowering your power consumption. If your pool is Winterised, you will be able to run the filtration system even less.

With the lower running times though, there is the potential for the amount of dust and debris in the pool to build as the cleaner and skimmer may not have enough time to remove it all. This can increase your phosphate levels. A High phosphate level can provide perfect conditions for algae to grow and that could end up costing you more in the long run.

Follow the BioGuard 3 Step Program for a healthy, low maintenance pool this winter 

Click to download the full .pdf

Tips for upgrading your pool equipment

Winter is the perfect time to upgrade old equipment while the pool is not in use. There are a number of reasons to upgrade your old equipment, from better water quality & power-saving alternatives to reduced maintenance and peace of mind.

So what should you be looking for when upgrading your equipment? We've listed a few of the most common upgrades for your pool below and have provided links to the products we suggest and supply to help you with your research.

POOL PUMPS

Upgrading your old pool pump to a Variable Speed pump will not only save you money on your power bills, but its reduced flow rate also takes the pressure off the pool plumbing increasing the life of your other equipment. You'll also get peace of mind with quality construction and warranty support.

POOL FILTERS

Upgrading to a media filter will require much less maintenance than the other filter types. These filters only require backwashing to clean and take at the very most just five minutes with the turn of a valve. It is usually only done every two to three months in Winter and once a month in Summer so you'll save lots of time on maintenance.

FILTER MEDIA

Glass filter media such as AFM is non-porous, self-sterilising, and can trap 30% more bacteria and organic material than a traditional Sand Filter, giving Bacteria nowhere to grow within the filter. Backwashing will be required less often and when you do it will be more efficient, using less water.

ROBOTIC POOL CLEANERS

No more clicking noise from your suction cleaner interrupting a relaxing time by the pool. A robotic cleaner is easy-to-use, runs independently from your pool system.

It runs silently and intelligently, adapting to your pool. Simply plug it into power, drop it into your pool & turn it on.

One will cover the entire pool and filter the water as it goes to leave your pool clean and clear, much faster than other cleaners.

MINERAL SWIM SYSTEM

Using 100% natural minerals to produce low levels of chlorine combined with an Ozone water purification system that almost instantly neutralises bacteria, algae, and other organic material.

This system provides the safest, clearest, and healthiest, low chlorine swimming water available. The minerals soothe and hydrate the skin, relax muscles and clear the water, while Ozone provides one of the most effective sanitising agents available.

POOL COVERS & ROLLERS

Pool covers are the best way to reduce dirt and debris getting into the pool, minimising your cleaning time.

They will save you hundreds of dollars in excess water bills by preventing evaporation.

They're also great at retaining heat to extend the swimming season.

How to get rid of black spot algae in your pool

Get rid of Blackspot algae. Blackspot is notoriously difficult to remove due to its hard black 'shell' which doesn't scrub off easily which protects the algae underneath. However, removing it isn't as difficult as it sounds.

Winter is the perfect time to treat blackspot as the pool isn't in use and you need to increase chlorine levels higher than normal to attack the algae.

1. Clean your baskets and filter to allow for the most efficient water circulation and filtration.

2. Remove the automatic cleaner from the pool. This will increase water flow and prolong the life of your cleaner as there will be a high level of chlorine in the water that can have an adverse effect on its lifespan.

3. Then test the water and balance pH to 7.2- 7.6. When the pH is in this range your chlorine is the most effective. (bring us in a sample to have your water checked 1st)

4. Brush the algae with a hard brush, being careful not to damage the surface of your pool.

5. Super chlorinate your water with the recommended dose by one of our team. This can be done with powdered or liquid chlorine. In some instances, powdered chlorine may even be appropriate to pour directly onto the Blackspot.

6. Add the recommended dose of an algaecide such as BioGuard MSA or Algiguard to assist with the process.

7. Run your filtration system for a minimum of 24 hours and brush the pool as often as you can, ideally twice a day if possible until the Blackspot is gone.

Depending on the amount of Blackspot, this process can take longer and potentially require multiple treatments. Contact us today to discuss the best option for your pool or spa or book one of our technicians below to come to you!

How to solve pool water flow issues

Low water flow and No water flow are common issues faced by many pool owners every year. There are a few quick checks you can do to see where the issue is and simple ways to rectify them.

Flow problems can happen for a few reasons, and if not fixed quickly can lead to damage to your equipment like, cracked baskets, broken internals, motor burnout or leaking seals, which could cost more than expected!

#1 Blocked Baskets

The most common reason for low or no water flow is your skimmer and/or pump baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump), this will help free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully ‘prime’ and function at full capacity.

*Always turn the pump off before you remove the baskets! If your pool pump is below water level you will need to close any valves in front of the pump and set the multiport valve on the filter to ‘closed’ to avoid water spilling everywhere!

Check your baskets for cracks or broken pieces as this can allow leaves to clog up in other areas of your system.

#2 Low water level

With long spells of hot weather, windy conditions, no rain or just extra swimming, your pool water level can drop below the skimmer box and reduce (or even stop) water flow through the system. The ideal water level for your pool is at least halfway up the skimmer box opening.

*When filling up the pool with water from the garden hose or water tank, ensure that you have your water tested for phosphates after your water level is back to normal.

#3 Check if your pump is primed

Look through the clear pump lid while the system is on, if it isn’t completely filled with water, turn it off and take off the pump lid (don't lose the o'ring!). Empty the pump basket of any debris and replace it, then use a bucket to manually fill the pump, this is called priming. Once the water level in the pump basket is up higher than it started, replace the pump lid with the o’ring and turn your pump back on. This is usually enough to “jump-start” the pump although, if water doesn’t start flowing through after 15-20 seconds, turn the pump off.

If priming hasn’t worked the first try, to help with water flow, try disconnecting the suction cleaner, taking out the vacuum plate and cleaning the skimmer basket before trying to prime the pump again.

If you’re still having trouble, while the pump is turned off rotate the multiport valve handle to “recirculate” and try priming the pump again. If after these tips you still can’t get your pump to prime, turn the pump off, give the pool a shock dose of chlorine and contact us for assistance.

#4 Clean your filter

A dirty filter will reduce water flow as the pump can only push water through so much dirt and debris. Try backwashing and rinsing your media filter. If this still doesn't work, turn the pump off and set your filter to recirculate. If you now have normal flow, try backwashing again, if it still doesn’t work you may be due for a media change.

If you have a cartridge filter, you’ll need to clean the cartridge by removing it from the housing *ensure that the pump is off and any valves are closed if below water level. Hose the cartridge clean or replace if necessary and re-assemble, lubricate the o’rings and open any valves. Turn the pump on and bleed the air from the top until water comes out and you’re ready to go again!

D.E filters need to be backwashed and every few months they’ll need cleaning by disassembling, hosing & reassembling. Similar to the cartridge filters, ensure the pump is off and any valves are closed beforehand. Clean, re-assemble, open the valves and bleed the air to finish!

If you’re not sure how or confident to do these contact us to do it for you…Call us on 9769 3252 or book online here

# 5 Check pump impeller

*Never take your pump apart! this can void the warranty and cause further damage. Contact us to have a professional look over your equipment.

The impeller is essentially a spinning, hollow disc that draws in water at the centre and spins it out at high pressure. If your pump impeller is clogged, it will not be able to move as much water through its 'veins' (see image). This blockage is usually caused by a broken or split pump basket.

Turn the pump off, take the pump lid off and remove the pump basket. Use a small tool or your fingers to remove any debris from the impeller.

If you’re still having continued issues with your pool’s water flow, the fastest and simplest way to find a solution is to call or visit our shop staff who are always on hand to help troubleshoot, don’t forget to bring in a water sample with you, alternatively, you can call us to book a service or click below to request online.

How to Winterise your pool

Now that autumn has arrived, and winter is fast approaching, your pool usage has probably declined. However, just because your pool has shut up shop for the season doesn’t mean you can forget about it… doing so might leave you with a green pool, costing you much more than preventative maintenance would.

SO, HOW DO YOU GET YOUR POOL READY FOR WINTER?

STEP 1. CLEAN IT

Remove all debris from the water, skimmer, pump basket and filters. If anything is left to sink to the bottom it can stain the surface and be a real pain to clean.

STEP 2. CHECK ALL EQUIPMENT

Ensure the pump is working and there is no calcium build-up on the chlorination cell. Try using BioGuard Salt Cell Cleaner to remove any calcification.

Throughout the cooler months, you’ll still need the pump, filter and chlorinator to run for at least 4 hours a day If needed, we can always service your pool equipment.

STEP 3. BACKWASH YOUR FILTER

To clean contaminants from the filter, you’ll need to backwash the filter. Follow these basic steps to backwash your filter properly:

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘BACKWASH’ & open any valves on your waste line

• Turn the pump ON & run for 1-2 minutes or until the sight glass is clear.

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘RINSE’

• Turn the pump ON & run for 1-2 minutes or until the sight glass is clear.

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘FILTER’

• Turn the pump ON and set the timer to automatic.

STEP 4. BALANCE THE WATER

Everything in your pool becomes more efficient with properly balanced water. You’re primarily defending against algae outbreaks, but the surface and equipment will also last longer.

If you need to shock your pool, try using BioGuard’s Burn Out Extreme. It’s easy to use, is great for shocking or treating pools with chlorine demands and/or algae problems.

STEP 5. ADD A PHOSPHATE REMOVER

Although your pool might not contain algae, the addition of a phosphate remover like Pool Tonic eliminates its food source. No phosphates = no algae.

STEP 6. ADD A LONG TERM ALGAECIDE

A long-lasting algaecide like Bioguard MSA will kill algae & continue to remain active in the water for up to 3 months. This means that you won’t have to worry about any algal blooms while you’re not using the pool which could create a costly clean up when you’re ready to start swimming again.

STEP 7. USE YOUR POOL COVER

If you don’t have one, now is the time to invest. A cover protects your pool from debris, elements and evaporation. Let’s be honest, no one wants to be skimming and vacuuming when it’s freezing outside. Read our article about the benefits of pool covers here

STEP 8. CONTINUE BASIC MAINTENANCE

Continue to check the water chemistry and filter gauge every two weeks, adjusting where necessary.

Every so often, it’s a good idea to bring a water sample to us to give it the full once over.

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Ozone kills 99.9% viruses and bacteria

Ozone can be viewed as the most powerful oxidising and disinfecting agent available for pool & spa water treatment*. Ozone will act as the primary oxidiser and disinfectant destroying impurities and microorganisms allowing the pool owner to reduce the chlorine demand needed in their pool.

• Ozone destroys 99.9% of viruses and bacteria

• If pool water is treated only with chlorine takes approximately 16 minutes for viruses to be killed.

• Ozone Swim is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria

• Ozone can be viewed as the most powerful oxidising and disinfecting agent available for pool & spa water treatment

Ozone, is the key component of a Mineral Swim system that destroys 99.9% of viruses and bacteria and has been proven to kill viruses including SARS which has an almost identical structure to COVID-19. Ozone is widely used in many industries where germs are likely to spread, including Aquatic Centres, Hospitals and the Airline Industry.

Ozone Swim is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria than chlorine making it one of the most powerful and effective sanitation systems on the market.

If pool water is treated just with chlorine alone, at certain levels, it will take approximately 16 minutes for viruses to be killed.

Viruses are chlorine resistant, meaning they are not easily destroyed by chlorine alone. However, when combined with a secondary sanitation system like Ozone Swim the risk of contracting a virus is significantly decreased.

“Ozone is a stronger oxidiser than chlorine, it substantially reduces chlorine demand and allows chlorine to be more efficient in residual disinfection allowing for lower chlorine levels…”

Effect of Ozone on Bacteria & Viruses

Ozone is a water purification system that’s 10 x stronger than chlorine as a disinfectant & kills bacteria on contact leaving no residual traces as chlorine does. It’s the residual from chlorine (combined chlorine/chloramine) that’s responsible for that nasty smell and irritating the skin and eyes.

Viruses are different, unlike bacteria, they multiply only within the host cell and they transform proteins of that host cell into proteins of their own. Ozone destroys viruses by diffusing through the protein coat into the nucleic acid core resulting in damage to the virus.

What about other Health Benefits?

Ozone has many other well-documented health benefits, the water feels softer to swim in, it's gentle on the skin and the eyes, particularly for the 1 in 4 Australians that suffer from a skin condition like eczema & psoriasis and finally, it’s a natural flocculant so your water clarity will be crystal clear.

Fun Fact: All bottled water is treated by ozone!

*Recognised by The World Health Organisation (WHO)

Which pool type is best for you?

Which is chlorination (sanitation) type is best for your pool and your family? There are a multitude of different options available to choose from so we break down the benefits and drawbacks of each one along with our preferred options, allowing you to make a more informed choice when choosing your type of pool.

Chlorine

A Chlorine only pool (in this instance), is one where either liquid or powdered chlorine is manually or automatically added to the water regularly. Liquid chlorine is the cheapest way to chlorinate your water, however, it is also the bulkiest and most hazardous. The use of an automatic feeder will monitor your pool chlorine level and adjust accordingly. These however are expensive and due to the highly corrosive nature of liquid chlorine, can require a lot of maintenance.

Powdered chlorine is more efficient, safer and easier to handle, however, it is more expensive. It also cannot be manually delivered, with the exception of chlorine tablets, which are compressed forms of powdered chlorine.

All other balances still need to be maintained especially the pH as this is easily affected by the addition of chlorine. Maintaining proper stabiliser & calcium levels with powdered chlorine is also necessary.

Pros - Potentially cheaper

Cons - More work to maintain levels, bulky, hazardous, throws out other balances quickly.

Saltwater

By far the most popular type of pool sanitation in Australia. The use of a saltwater chlorinator to produce chlorine regularly throughout the filtration cycle is both efficient and practical. The constant production of chlorine gas begins to work instantly in the pool water to neutralise algae, bacteria and other organic matter. The process requires the pool water to have a minimum amount of salt in the water, usually anywhere from 2,500 ppm (parts per million) to 5,000ppm depending on the brand and model. If the salt level falls below this level, the production is reduced or even stopped to avoid damage to the unit.

Saltwater chlorinators have an approximate lifespan of about 5 years depending on how long they're used each day and at what output its set to.

Pros - Tried & tested, efficient chlorine production, great if you like salt water!

Cons - No testing of chlorine levels so can build up chlorine too high if left unchecked.

Mineral Pool + Ozone

Fast becoming a very popular option among pool owners, Mineral pools such as Mineral Swim, utilise a two-stage sanitisation process. The first is similar to the saltwater chlorinator which uses minerals instead of salt to produce a small amount of chlorine as well as make the water softer and clearer. It works in conjunction with the Ozone system to neutralise organic material such as algae and bacteria in the water. The Ozone component is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria than chlorine alone.

Pros - Softer & clearer water, low chlorine levels, no 'chlorine smell' perfect for sensitive skin & asthma sufferers.

Cons - More expensive than traditional saltwater systems

Freshwater

The typical 'freshwater' system uses a combination of copper to prevent algae growth and silver to disinfect the water which is infused into the water neutralising bacteria. This type of water purification has been around since the Ancient Greeks discovered that algae wouldn't grow in copper water pots! There is still a very small amount of chlorine that is required to keep the water safe.

Pros - Very low chlorine levels required, soft free water feel

Cons - One of the most expensive options for residential pool water management.

Ultimately, the type of pool comes down to your personal preferences. Do you want ease of maintenance or an amazing swimming experience? Whichever you decide, we can help you find the right system to your pool and ensure it works for you and your family!