Pool & spa chemicals to keep on hand

Ensuring that you have a small stock of pool chemicals on hand for when you can't make it into the pool shop, will keep your pool in good working order and avoid any expensive issues in the future. Here are our top suggestions for which products and how much of each to keep at home.

Test kit & testing reagents

Chlorine, pH & Total Alkalinity are the main balances to keep in check. With a well-stocked test kit, you can make sure the pool is in balance even when you can’t get into the store.

Chlorine / Bromine

We suggest having at least 2 kg of on hand for a pool or 1kg Bromine for a spa (powdered chlorine will last longer and is easier to store than liquid chlorine)

Hydrochloric Acid / pH Reducer

5 litres of Hydrochloric acid will usually last around 4-6 weeks for average-sized pools or 500gms of pH reducer for spas.

Buffer / Total Alkalinity Increaser

2 kgs of pH buffer for pools or 500gms of TA Increaser for spas will last you a month or more, depending on the weather conditions.

Salt & Minerals

Having a few extra bags on hand, ideally, 2-4, will allow you to top up if your chlorinator production drops.

Clarifier

1ltr Quick Clear Liquid clarifier (or 3 - 4 Super Clear clarifying tabs) will help your filter remove organic and inorganic waste.

Oxidiser

1 kg Oxysheen will help the chlorine kill germs and bacteria much faster and efficiently.

Book a pool test and balance online below or
call 03 9769 3252 to keep your pool going over the next few months.

Types of chlorine for your pool

Bacteria can grow in any untreated body of water with swimmers being the primary source of contaminants along with rainwater, leaves, grass, dust and pets.

Having a sanitiser in your pool or spa at recommended levels will eliminate most of the bacteria in the water. The neutralised bacteria is then filtered out & any residual sanitiser left in the water will continue to work to prevent new bacteria growth.

Sanitiser = Chlorine

The recommended Chlorine level in a standard outdoor pool is between 2.5 - 3.0ppm (parts per million) with heated pools and spas requiring a higher level of sanitiser than non-heated pools. This is because sanitisers are consumed more quickly in hot water.

*Please note: The majority of the information in this article is for swimming pools. For more information on sanitising your spa, please click below.

Types of Sanitisers

Each form of chlorine and its production has its own individual features, pros and cons. Our knowledgeable staff can happily help you work out which form of sanitation is best for your pool/spa and lifestyle.

Liquid Chlorine

(Sodium Hypochlorite)

It is most commonly available as a liquid. Liquid chlorine is the most economical and can be dosed automatically, however, the storage containers are bulky and liquid chlorine has a limited shelf life due to loss of strength over time from heat and sunlight. It also has a naturally high pH level of 13 which will always increase the pH of a pool or spa, requiring it to be rebalanced after each dose.

Granular Chlorine

Granular chlorine is a more convenient option compared with liquid chlorine as it's more concentrated and easier to store. However, it’s more expensive and cannot be dosed using an automatic feeder unless it is in tablet form via a float and comes in 2 common forms Calcium Hypochlorite and Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Available in granular or tablet form, has between 60-70% available chlorine (effective chlorine content). As it is made up of Calcium, continual use will increase your Calcium Hardness levels over time which can affect your pool surface. The ideal Calcium Hardness levels for concrete and pebble surfaces are between 200-400, Fibreglass between 120-250 and Vinyl liners 20-150. If these levels become too high, scale formation on the pool surface is possible.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.7ppm increase in your Calcium Hardness level.

Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate - Also available in granular or tablet form, is usually about 50-60% available chlorine. This form of chlorine also contains Cyanuric Acid or 'stabiliser'. Continual use of Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate will continually increase your level of Cyanuric Acid and these can potentially get too high and cause a 'chlorine block' whereby it inhibits the ability of your chlorine to work effectively.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.9ppm increase in your stabiliser level. For an uncovered, salt or chlorine pool, the ideal Cyanuric acid level is between 40-60.

Types of chlorine production

Automatic Chlorinators

Chlorine can also be generated by salt or mineral chlorinators. Chlorinators use a process called electrolysis. In a saltwater chlorinator, it works by using an electrical charge to 'split' the Sodium Chloride (Salt) into Sodium and Chlorine. It is circulated into the pool so it can kill bacteria and viruses and prevent algae growth around the pool.

Eventually, this natural form of chlorine is used up and reverts back to the original two elements of sodium and chlorine = salt.

Common Misconceptions - SALT IS USED UP IN CHLORINE PRODUCTION

Salt chlorinators do not use up the salt to create chlorine. Saltwater chlorination is closed-loop system, the salt isn’t used up in the process as it reverts back to Sodium Chloride (Salt) and repeats the process all over again.

Low Chlorine Systems

These systems are fast becoming very popular. They’re a much healthier alternative to manually adding chlorine or using a saltwater chlorinator. It’s great for people who have an intolerance to chlorine or who live with conditions such as asthma or eczema. These are sanitising systems that produce only a very small amount of chlorine and use other techniques such as Ioniser or Ozone systems to keep the pool clean, clear & healthy.

These systems require a much lower level of chlorine as a primary sanitiser, as they also use either an Ionising rod or an Ozone generator to produce a secondary sanitiser which is often much more effective than chlorine & creates a "fresher" or more natural feeling water.

Click below to learn about the Mineral Swim System or contact us to find out which low-chlorine system would be right for your pool.

Common Misconceptions - Chlorine Odour

A strong chlorine smell doesn’t always mean too much chlorine, it could mean too little. The odour is produced by chloramines and these can also cause sore eyes and itchy skin. To remove chloramines, it can be as simple as super chlorination or the use of a non-chlorine Oxidiser like Oxysheen for pools and Purity for Spas, however, it’s always best to have your water tested first, come in and see one of our staff with a water sample

How to make your pool more energy efficient

Making your pool more energy efficient will not only help reduce your impact on the environment but can also save you a lot of money over the course of a year! Not all upgrades have to cost a lot to make a difference, so here are six of the best, most practical, simple, and smart ways to reduce your pool’s power requirements and prevent spending more than you need.

1. Install a Variable Speed Pump

Variable speed pumps save money by giving you the ability to reduce the power consumed by reducing the speed of the pump. Compared to conventional single-speed pumps, the Viron XT pump will save you anywhere between $700 and $1,200 every year in operating costs.

2. Use a Robotic cleaner

The way robotic cleaners save you money is by reducing the filtration time required, which in turn requires less backwashing or filter cleaning which can typically use up to 20,000 litres each year!

3. Prevent water evaporation & heat loss

During summer, your pool may lose as much as 25mm of water per day, through evaporation. Additionally, 80% of your pool’s heat can also be lost through evaporation. This comes with dual costs – the cost of the water to top up your pool and the expense of heating it. Using a pool cover (yes, especially in summer) will help – as will windbreaks around your pool like trees or larger potted plants (a mere 10km/h wind blowing across the pool’s surface can cause dramatic evaporation).

4. LED pool lights

Most of us have swapped the globes around our homes to energy-efficient LEDs, but what about around the pool? Modern lighting can draw around 80% less power than conventional lighting. Plus, you can also change colours at the tap of a screen.

5. Your filtration system

The more debris there is in your pool, the harder your pump and filter will have to work and therefore, use more energy. So regular cleaning of your pool and filter will help everything work more efficiently. You can also upgrade your old sand filter media to glass media and this will further reduce the amount of time needed to backwash & rinse.

6. Move to the dark side

If you’re about to build, renovate or install a pool, darker-coloured pools absorb the sun’s warmth more than lighter-coloured pools. If you’re keen on saving energy, money and the environment, they’re worth considering. And with plenty of LED lighting installed, they look especially magnificent at night.

Saving the buck stops with you

It might seem obvious, but if you only use your pool on weekends, reduce your temperature settings for weekdays by about 8–10˚. Similarly, if you’re away on holiday, you don’t want to heat the pool back home if no one’s using it.

And while most of us really only think of using the pool cover in winter, to stop debris falling in the pool, it’s a good idea to use it in summer, especially if the pool isn’t going to be used for an extended period. Note Point 3 above, about ‘evaporation’.

At the end of the day, it’s about saving energy, saving money, and saving the environment. With nearly 1.5 million of us lucky enough to own a pool or spa, and around 100,000 more being installed every year, reducing the amount of energy our pools use is good for everyone.

We want you to have as much safe enjoyment of your pool and spa as possible. However, importantly, the enjoyment that doesn’t cost the earth.

Pool Maintenance Tips

Maintenance of your pool & spa equipment is important all year round, and especially after a party or weather event like a storm. Here is a quick list of the main things to check, so your pool and equipment keep working at their best.

Cleaning Equipment

Check your leaf rake nets for splits and tears, these can be replaced separately either in-store or at home with just a screwdriver (and a lot of patience). Cracks in the frame of leaf rakes and brushes happen when the residual chlorinated water remains on them as well as damage from the sun’s UV rays.

Pumps

Check for any signs of leakage, most commonly found underneath. There is a mechanical seal that can begin to leak and become noisy with age. If you find a leak this means the seal needs to be replaced.

Also check the pump basket for cracks as this can allow fine debris through, clogging the inside of the pump, and restricting or even stopping the flow of water.

Filters

Media filters should be backwashed, they can also be cleaned and degreased as they benefit greatly from this because not everything is expelled with a backwash.

Cartridge and DE filters require a good hose out and should also be degreased to maintain their efficiency and make them last longer.

Those with glass media are the easiest filters to clean as they don't require any degreasing. Just a good backwash then rinse and you'll be good to go again.

Check the Multiport Valve for any leaks, the most common place to find them is water coming up through the handle area as well as from around the collar where it joins to the tank.

The tank of the filter can fatigue over time from being under constant high pressures, be sure to run your eye and hands over the whole tank for leaks and stress cracks. Check the pressure gauge for correct pressure readings e.g. When the pump is off, it should be at 0 and when on, it is operating in the normal range.

Salt Chlorinator

A good cleaning of the cell is important, even if it is 'self-cleaning'. This will remove the excess Calcium buildup that can attach itself to the plates that prevent proper chlorine production & the sensor which can give you false readings.

Simply mix a very dilute acid:water mix of 1 part acid to 10 parts water in a bucket and put the cell into the mix, ensure that the acid/water solution only touches the plates and not over the cap onto the leads.

*Always add acid to water, never water to acid as this can splash the acid onto you!!

Check the power connections on the cap to ensure there are no exposed wires and they aren't stripped or damaged.

Pool Cleaners

There are a lot of wearing parts on suction cleaners including skirts, soles, swivels, floats, and hoses on suction cleaners to rollers and baskets on robotic cleaners. Usually, a visual inspection of the cleaner will easily show parts in need of repair, though if they just aren’t working like they used to, you can bring the whole unit into us and we’ll give it the professional once over or you can have us come to you and make sure it’s covering the whole pool.

Water Balance

A home test kit will check your chlorine, pH, and alkalinity levels. Ensure they are in the ideal range and balance where required.

Alternatively, by bringing a water sample into our shop, we'll be able to test for all the balances that can affect your water quality and ensure that you have the perfect balance to keep your water clear!

*IMPORTANT - This is only a guide for what we suggest to check. If you are unfamiliar with your equipment and/or its operation, please contact us. We can either help you learn more or come and check your equipment for you. More damage can be done by removing or uninstalling any parts of the filtration system and voiding any warranties you may have.

Green pool water and Phosphates

Green water or algae on the walls is generally a sign of low chlorine, however, it is usually accompanied by a high level of phosphate in the water as well… So what is phosphate and how do you get rid of it?

Phosphates can be a problem all year round and slowly build up over time, however, we typically see a spike in the levels of phosphates in pools when wind and storms bring in microscopic dust particles from the farming & rural areas.

What Are Phosphates?

Phosphates are essentially food for algae and other aquatic organisms which they depend on it to grow.

The association between algae and phosphate is recognised as a major factor in the presence of algae in swimming pools despite the use of chlorine and other sanitisers.

The biggest issues for swimming pool owners from increased phosphate levels are excessive or stubborn algae blooms and rapid chlorine consumption.

How Do Phosphates Get in the Pool?

Phosphates can enter your pool a few different ways: leaves, twigs, dirt, dust and bugs blown in from the wind or washed into the pool from heavy rain along with grass clippings, fertilisers and pesticides used around the pool. They also come from swimmers’ body wastes and adding water to the pool from water tanks. All of these can increase the levels of phosphate in the pool water which will give algae plenty of food to grow.

Removing Phosphates

BioGuard Phos Kill will remove phosphates from pool water, preventing algae growth by removing the food source. This also makes pool sanitation more efficient against algae and can reduce chlorine consumption.

Once the phosphates have been removed, it's important to maintain a low phosphate level. This will ensure clean water, better chlorine performance and no algae. All living things, including algae in swimming pools, need phosphate to survive and grow. Maintaining a low phosphate level and increasing the chlorine concentration will result in fewer algae problems in your pool.

Preventing Phosphates in the future

As additional insurance against recurring algae, BioGuard Pool Complete is an easy weekly maintenance routine that keeps water amazingly clear, prevents waterline build and removes phosphates as they enter the water.

Ideally, you will also:

• Restrict runoff from lawns, landscaping or washing decks entering the pool

• Remove leaves and other debris from the pool regularly

• Use a long-life algaecide such as MSA Extreme or AlgiGuard all year round in conjunction with their phosphate removal treatment

• Get us to regularly test your pool water for phosphates and treat when necessary

We have special test kits to check the level of phosphate in your water, so, should the result of the test exceed the recommended level then we have BioGuard Phos Kill to remove the excess phosphate is now readily available in store.

Bring a water sample to us today and we can check your Phosphate levels along with all your other pool chemical balances for FREE! Alternatively, you can use the button below to book one of our highly trained pool technicians to come to you.

Pool & Spa Safety - CPR

If you have a pool or spa, you must have a CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) sign prominently displayed, ideally in eye-sight of the step area, as this is the most obvious place assistance would take place. 

Knowing CPR can save lives. It’s recommended that pool spa owners should be trained in CPR and have resuscitation skills. Remember, if someone gets into a dangerous situation phone your local emergency services.

Life Saving Victoria has a number of great resources for you to keep your family safe around the pool & spa, allowing you to relax and enjoy it!

Their Resuscitate checklist is:

• Check for danger to self, to bystanders and to the victim (Danger)

• Shout “Are you ok?” and gently squeeze the victim’s shoulder (Response)

• Send for help (Send)

• Clear and maintain airway (Airway)

• Look, listen and feel for breathing (Breathing)

• If no signs of life, commence CPR (Compression)

• If available, grab a defibrillator and follow the prompts (Defibrillation)

View their other pool safety services here - https://lsv.com.au/pool-safety-services

CPR signs

CPR signs must:

• be attached to the safety barrier of the pool or spa, or displayed near the water so that the sign is easily visible to a person near the pool or spa

• be at least 300mm by 300mm in size

• ideally, be made of durable and weatherproof material

• include a prominent statement explaining how to act in an emergency (e.g. call Triple Zero, stay with the injured person, provide first aid).

Please contact us if you require a new CPR sign for your pool area. You can purchase in-store or arrange for us to supply one at our next service.

CPR sign example - Life Saving Victoria

Life Saving Victoria

Life-Saving Victoria’s mission is to prevent aquatic-related death and injury in all Victorian communities. Their Vision is that all Victorians will learn water safety, swimming and resuscitation and be provided with safe aquatic environments and venues.

Visit https://lsv.com.au for more information about the LSV.

Party tips for your pool or spa

Making sure your pool or spa is clean before, during and after a party doesn't have to be hard. Before you invite everyone over for a swim, read our tips on getting your pool party ready and know how to get it back in shape once the party’s over.

Before the party

• Ensure your water is balanced,

• Remove all the debris from the pool with a manual vacuum and leaf rake,

• Balance your water, then for a pool give it a shock dose with liquid chlorine or a pool shock sachet (the average size pool is 5 litres of liquid or 500 grams of granular chlorine), For a spa, once balanced, add the recommended amount of a non-chlorine oxidiser as well as removing the cover if you plan to use straight away.

During the party

• If your pool is being used consistently, have the pump running without any automatic cleaner attached to improve water flow and reduce the possibility of damage to your cleaner, always run the spa whilst in use.

• If the pool continues to be used heavily, using a non-chlorine shock such as Oxysheen can be added when there is a short break in swimmer use (like lunchtime) to help maintain clarity and burn off organic swimmer waste.

After the party

• Remove all debris from the pool or spa such as streamers, paper, bottle caps, paper plates, plastic cutlery, etc. If a bottle cap or metal object is left on the bottom of the pool or spa too long, it could stain the surface.

• Clean out all the baskets to improve water flow, both skimmer and pump baskets will have party debris in them.

• Check the pressure in the filter and if it is not too high allow it to filter for another 24 hrs (for a pool) or 2 hours for a spa to filter out finer particles. If the pressure gets too high, give the filter a quick backwash (1 minute with 1 minute rinse) or clean with the hose for the cartridge & D.E filters.

• Shock the pool with BioGuard Lite, or if you have a saltwater pool – BioGuard Salt Pool Sparkle to eliminate these wastes and any odours.

• If the water is cloudy, add the recommended shock dose of your sanitiser (chlorine for a pool, and bromine or Oxysheen for a spa) and run the filter for a few hours.

• Bring a water sample down to us at Poolside Beaconsfield for testing, and have it balanced up as soon as possible and ready for the next time!

We’re always here to help so if you need a pre-party cleanup and balance, or you’ve had your big party and need some professional help on the cleanup, click below to book online or call us directly on 03 9769 3252.

Oxidising your pool water

Oxidisation in your water may sound bad, though it’s actually a very good thing! When you oxidise your water, you’re killing algae, bacteria and other organic material by breaking it down on a molecular level.

So, what is oxidation in pool or spa water?

Oxidisation is the chemical reaction that occurs when a reactive substance (chlorine or oxidisers) interacts with unwanted organic matter (sweat, leaves, suntan lotion, algae, etc). The chlorine you add to your pool is there to attack and destroy unwanted bacteria.

How is it different from Chlorine?

When chlorine reacts to organic material, like sweat, lotions and other organic materials, it can create harmful chloramines. Chloramines are what can cause irritation of the skin and eyes and often leaves an unpleasant ‘chlorine’ smell.

When should you oxidise?

The short answer is weekly, especially when your pool is in use (in Summer).

Oxidising removes the unwanted organic matter before it builds up and becomes a problem. This allows chlorine to focus on its job, killing bacteria.

The best way to avoid these problems altogether and ensure your pool water is always safe and healthy, is to just follow the BioGuard 3-Step Program.

Step 1: Sanitise the water to remove harmful bacteria
Step 2: Use an oxidiser to destroy organic matter and keep the water sparkling clear
Step 3: Treat water with an algaecide to control any algae growth

We recommend having a few of the following products on hand to keep your water clear and healthy.

For salt pools, use Salt Pool Sparkle, and for chlorine pools, use BioGuard Lite. These are perfect for your weekly maintenance program, as they’re fast-acting so you can get back in the water after an hour.

BioGuard Burn Out Extreme provides a convenient and economical means for shocking swimming pools as well as treating pools with chlorine demand and algae problems.

BioGuard Oxysheen is a chlorine-free, stabiliser-free oxidiser treatment for pools, which also allows bathers back in the water one hour after treatment.

And if you ever need any advice at all on keeping your pool or spa ready to go, contact us online, in-store or on the phone.

Simple pool care tips

When the first hot day of summer strikes the last place any pool owner wants to be is standing in their local pool shop.

Grant Forbes, the owner of Poolside Beaconsfield, knows this better than anyone.

But lucky for pool owners everywhere, Grant has some handy tips to keep them out of store queues and in their pools – and it all starts long before summer hits.

If you do this, your visit to the pool shop at the start of summer will result in you requiring more chemicals and you not swimming until the pool has turned back to what is considered chemically safe.

So you can have a pool that looks fantastic all year round and is ready to use when you need it or you can stand in your pool shop on a hot Saturday morning getting frustrated because you’re standing in a queue in the pool shop to be told you need all these chemicals and cannot use your pool.

“It will cost you the same to maintain your pool for 12 months – whether you visit your pool shop every month in winter and every two weeks in summer, or if you ignore it and let your pool turn green throughout winter”

According to Grant, one of the keys to maintaining a quality pool is investing in quality equipment such as pumps and pool cleaners, because, as he says; You shouldn’t have to come home and work on a pool. You should come home and be in the pool!

Another important factor in keeping a pool looking tip-top is a pool cover.

A pool cover does three things, firstly, it keeps large debris out. The second thing it does is keep the heat in, and the third thing is that it reduces your water evaporation by 97%.

Once summer is over, a heating system can extend its use well into the cooler months. There are multiple heating systems on the market now with each having its own benefits. The first is a solar heating system that ideally goes on the north-facing roof and uses the sun to heat your pool water by way of a circulation pump.

Second is a gas-fired heating system that uses natural gas to heat your pool water by circulating the water through the heater.

The third is a heat pump which uses similar technology to reverse cycle air conditioning using the heat in the air to heat your pool water by way of a circulation pump.

Advice for any time of the year

The best advice I could give anyone is to visit their pool shop on a regular basis and do what the computer-generated report tells you to do without question. There are millions of pieces of data that come together in the software program to recommend what is best for your pool as no two pools are the same.

I also suggest having your equipment serviced each winter so it is in reliable condition for your summer swimming experience.

Swimming Pool Summer Maintenance checklist

As the weather heats up, storms become more frequent and the pool gets a lot more use. Here are our top tips to help your pool survive Summer!

Hot weather

Keep an eye on your water level. Especially if it's a little more windy than normal. This will cause the pool water to evaporate more quickly. Once the water level goes below the skimmer box, your pump won't work and your filtration system will also stop, which is the quickest way to get a green pool!

Storms & Heavy rain

When heavy rain is expected, lower the water level of your pool to avoid overflowing as this can pull dirt and debris from around your pool back into the water. You may need to drain the excess water from the pool using the waste setting on the multi-port valve on your filter.

1. Turn off the pump,

2. Change the valve handle from FILTER onto WASTE (not backwash!),

3. Open any valves on the waste line,

4. Disconnect any suction cleaners & vacuum plates,

5. Then turn the pump back on to lower the water level,

6. Once the water level is halfway up the skimmer box,

7. Turn the pump off,

8. Return the multiport valve to FILTER,

9. Reconnect the cleaner and

10. Turn the pump back on (or set the timer to auto).

If however, dirt has already entered the water, the use of a floccing agent to clear the pool water may be required. We strongly suggest coming into the shop to get the best technical assistance or book a service to ensure the best results.

After a storm, remove larger debris, empty your baskets and then allow your filtration system to run a little extra or even overnight to help clear the pool until you're able to give it a really good clean and correctly balance the water again.

Sometimes, power surges or outages will require you to reset older pool timers. Most newer chlorinators are the timer for your pool pump and have battery backups so they’ll continue to keep time until the main power returns.

If however, it does require adjustment, analogue timers are easy to reset, just spin the timer clockwise until the time is correct. Digital timers will require going into the settings and updating through the display, please refer to your user manual (most can be found online with a quick Google search).

If you need further assistance, contact us for help over the phone or come in-store.

High Usage

When you know the pool is going to get used a lot it's always best to ensure your pool water is chemically balanced.

Shock your pool with 5lts of chlorine or 500gms granular chlorine for a 50,000lt pool. During heavy use we recommend running the pool without the automatic cleaner attached, this will increase water flow and also prevent swimmers from being tangled in the hose.

Once everyone has finished swimming for the day, remove all debris from the pool such as toys, dirt, streamers, paper, bottle caps etc. Clean out all the baskets (both skimmer and pump baskets) and leave the filter to run for 24 hours as well as bring us a water sample to be tested and balanced.

Use an oxidiser such as Oxysheen or Burn out Extreme to quickly destroy organic material and clarify the water without excessive chlorine required.

Pool Safety

Every pool must have a CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) sign prominently displayed, ideally in eye-sight of the step area as this is the most obvious place assistance would take place.

The addition of knowing how to perform CPR by taking a First Aid course (or getting a regular refresher) is vital in an emergency situation.

We hope these quick tips help you this Summer, we look forward to seeing you in store soon!

Pool Safety Guide

Having a pool is a great way to cool off, keep the kids entertained and keep fit. We've put together a short checklist of things that we think will help to ensure your pool is safe so you, your family, and your friends can continue to enjoy it all Summer!

The checklist features 8 parts; The swimming pool gate, swimming pool fence, around the swimming pool fence, supervision, pump, grates and suction, emergency preparation, chemicals & electricity.

We encourage all pool owners to make this weekend your home pool safety weekend before Summer.

Disclaimer: This checklist does not substitute for a full pool safety inspection and is for awareness purposes only.

#1 Swimming pool gate safety guide

• Must open outward from the pool.

• Must be self-closing and self-latching from any distance.

• The latch must be more than 1.5m from the ground.

• Must latch catch on the first swing.

#2 Swimming pool fence safety guide

• Secure and in good working order.

• No more than 100mm from the ground.

• Should be at least 1.2m high.

• No vertical gaps more than 100mm apart.

#3 Around the swimming pool fence safety guide

• Pool aids and toys should be stored securely and out of view.

• Objects that could be used to climb the fence should be removed from the area.

#4 Supervision safety guide

• Adult supervision in combination with pool fencing is the most effective method of preventing children from drowning.

#5 Pump, Grates, and Suction safety guide

• Always turn off the pump before removing lids, clamps, or connections.

• Ensure that no fittings are broken or missing

• Fix leaks immediately.

• Be aware that the filtration system is under a high amount of pressure

#6 Emergency preparation safety guide

• Up-to-date CPR and first aid skills

• Keep an up-to-date CPR sign in a prominent place in the pool area ideally near the pool steps - Contact us by phone, email, or come in-store to get a new CPR sign.

#7 Chemicals safety guide

• Store all chemicals securely, out of view, and reach of children.

• Always mix chemicals into the water, NEVER pour water into chemicals.

• Use chemicals in an open, well-ventilated area.

• When pouring chemicals into the pool, pour slowly & carefully to avoid splashing onto yourself or the surrounding area.

• Heavily dilute spills with lots of water and clean up immediately.

#8 Electricity safety guide

• Electricity and water do not mix. Keep plugged in electrical devices such as stereo equipment away from the pool and where puddles can accumulate.

• A residual current device (rcd) or residual current circuit breaker (rccb) can save lives.

For more information, suggestions, tips or to talk to us about getting a certified pool inspection, come in-store, call or email us today.

Common Swimming Pool Questions

How long do I have to wait to use my swimming pool after chemical treatment?

Generally it is safe to use your pool after chemicals have dispersed throughout the pool, usually 15 minutes to one hour. If shocking your pool, wait until the chlorine levels drops to recommended levels.

How often do I need to test my pool water?

Weekly testing works for most backyard pools, but the best bet is to test your pH and chlorine levels at least twice per week. Chlorine should be fed continuously through a chemical feeding device to maintain a consistent level.

I still have pool chemicals left over from last season. Are they OK to use?

You should check the expiration date on your pool chemicals and discard and replace any that have expired. Never dispose of chemicals in the household trash or down any drains unless directed by a water treatment facility. Never pour chemicals down a drain or toilet if they lead to a septic tank. Always make it part of your spring pool opening plan to buy new chemicals from Poolside Beaconsfield’s annual open day sale!

Is Chlorine safe for swimming pools?

Yes. Chlorine sanitisers are safe when used according to package directions approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Chlorine levels within the recommended range for swimming pool water do not pose any known health risks. Chlorine sanitisers have been used safely and successfully as pool and hot tub disinfectants for over a century. The majority of public pools and 9 out of 10 residential pools are sanitized with chlorine.

What causes Chlorine odor, red eyes and itchy skin?

These unpleasant conditions indicate that the pool water has not been properly treated. A common cause is high levels of chloramines, formed when chlorine combines with body oils, perspiration, urine and other contaminants brought into pools by swimmers.

Contrary to what most people think, a strong chemical smell is not an indication of too much chlorine in the pool. In fact, the pool may actually need additional chlorine treatment to get rid of chloramines and sanitize the water.

When do I need to shock my pool?

Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy water contaminates that reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitiser. Contaminants like hair spray, sun-tan oil, cosmetics and other organic materials react with chlorine and cause eye or skin irritations and an unpleasant chlorine odor. Most often pools are inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine when this problem is present.

Why is it important to be sure that my pool water’s chemistry is correct?

You want to be sure to provide a sanitary swimming environment, balance the water to protect the equipment and pool surfaces and provide inviting, sparkling water to swim in.

Does chlorine prevent all recreational water illnesses?

Chlorine in swimming pools kills the germs that may make people sick, but it takes time. Chlorine in properly disinfected pools kills most germs. However, it takes longer to kill some germs such as Cryptosporidium that can survive for days in even a properly disinfected pool.

Also, many things can reduce chlorine levels in pool water. Some examples are sunlight, dirt, debris, and material from swimmer’s bodies. Healthy swimming behaviors and good hygiene are needed to protect you and your family and will help stop germs from getting in the pool.

How do I clean my stained plaster?

Dirt, rust and other minerals can stain the finish of your plastered pool. If the stain is organic; from leaves for example, a small amount of granular chlorine added at that location and allowed to settle on the stain will usually remove it instantly. Other non-organic stains will not be removed by chlorine.

Do not place chlorine tablets directly into the pool. They will stain and etch the pool plaster. If chlorine doesn’t work, acid usually will. Draining and acid washing will remove a thin layer of plaster (and stains), exposing fresh, new looking plaster beneath. Stains can also be sanded with pumice stones or wet/dry sandpaper.

How do I get rid of the ring around my vinyl pool?

Tile is placed around the perimeter of the pool because it is a surface that can be easily cleaned. There are many tile cleanser products available which are applied with a scrubbing pad or brush. Remember to never use abrasive cleaners on a vinyl pool. This ring is caused by a buildup of calcium in the water. We refer to this as having a high hardness level in the water. The only way to reduce hardness levels are by draining a portion of the pool and topping it up with fresh water. However we do provide Stain & scale control products in store.

Why should I purchase pool chemicals from a professional pool store instead of a big box retailer?

The main reason that you should purchase chemicals from a professional pool store instead of a big box retailer is the knowledge and expertise of the pool professionals. Your swimming pool is a huge investment. You want to be sure that you are purchasing the right chemicals and treatment to prevent problems in the future.

In addition, professional pool retailers offer reputable brands that are proven in the industry to function consistently and efficiently. You can damage your liner or gunite pool or hot tub by using poor quality chemicals, which can cost you much more money in the long run. Not to mention the ill effects some of these can have on your skin, hair, and eyes!