How to get rid of black spot algae in your pool

Get rid of Blackspot algae. Blackspot is notoriously difficult to remove due to its hard black 'shell' which doesn't scrub off easily which protects the algae underneath. However, removing it isn't as difficult as it sounds.

Winter is the perfect time to treat blackspot as the pool isn't in use and you need to increase chlorine levels higher than normal to attack the algae.

1. Clean your baskets and filter to allow for the most efficient water circulation and filtration.

2. Remove the automatic cleaner from the pool. This will increase water flow and prolong the life of your cleaner as there will be a high level of chlorine in the water that can have an adverse effect on its lifespan.

3. Then test the water and balance pH to 7.2- 7.6. When the pH is in this range your chlorine is the most effective. (bring us in a sample to have your water checked 1st)

4. Brush the algae with a hard brush, being careful not to damage the surface of your pool.

5. Super chlorinate your water with the recommended dose by one of our team. This can be done with powdered or liquid chlorine. In some instances, powdered chlorine may even be appropriate to pour directly onto the Blackspot.

6. Add the recommended dose of an algaecide such as BioGuard MSA or Algiguard to assist with the process.

7. Run your filtration system for a minimum of 24 hours and brush the pool as often as you can, ideally twice a day if possible until the Blackspot is gone.

Depending on the amount of Blackspot, this process can take longer and potentially require multiple treatments. Contact us today to discuss the best option for your pool or spa or book one of our technicians below to come to you!

How to solve pool water flow issues

Low water flow and No water flow are common issues faced by many pool owners every year. There are a few quick checks you can do to see where the issue is and simple ways to rectify them.

Flow problems can happen for a few reasons, and if not fixed quickly can lead to damage to your equipment like, cracked baskets, broken internals, motor burnout or leaking seals, which could cost more than expected!

#1 Blocked Baskets

The most common reason for low or no water flow is your skimmer and/or pump baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump), this will help free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully ‘prime’ and function at full capacity.

*Always turn the pump off before you remove the baskets! If your pool pump is below water level you will need to close any valves in front of the pump and set the multiport valve on the filter to ‘closed’ to avoid water spilling everywhere!

Check your baskets for cracks or broken pieces as this can allow leaves to clog up in other areas of your system.

#2 Low water level

With long spells of hot weather, windy conditions, no rain or just extra swimming, your pool water level can drop below the skimmer box and reduce (or even stop) water flow through the system. The ideal water level for your pool is at least halfway up the skimmer box opening.

*When filling up the pool with water from the garden hose or water tank, ensure that you have your water tested for phosphates after your water level is back to normal.

#3 Check if your pump is primed

Look through the clear pump lid while the system is on, if it isn’t completely filled with water, turn it off and take off the pump lid (don't lose the o'ring!). Empty the pump basket of any debris and replace it, then use a bucket to manually fill the pump, this is called priming. Once the water level in the pump basket is up higher than it started, replace the pump lid with the o’ring and turn your pump back on. This is usually enough to “jump-start” the pump although, if water doesn’t start flowing through after 15-20 seconds, turn the pump off.

If priming hasn’t worked the first try, to help with water flow, try disconnecting the suction cleaner, taking out the vacuum plate and cleaning the skimmer basket before trying to prime the pump again.

If you’re still having trouble, while the pump is turned off rotate the multiport valve handle to “recirculate” and try priming the pump again. If after these tips you still can’t get your pump to prime, turn the pump off, give the pool a shock dose of chlorine and contact us for assistance.

#4 Clean your filter

A dirty filter will reduce water flow as the pump can only push water through so much dirt and debris. Try backwashing and rinsing your media filter. If this still doesn't work, turn the pump off and set your filter to recirculate. If you now have normal flow, try backwashing again, if it still doesn’t work you may be due for a media change.

If you have a cartridge filter, you’ll need to clean the cartridge by removing it from the housing *ensure that the pump is off and any valves are closed if below water level. Hose the cartridge clean or replace if necessary and re-assemble, lubricate the o’rings and open any valves. Turn the pump on and bleed the air from the top until water comes out and you’re ready to go again!

D.E filters need to be backwashed and every few months they’ll need cleaning by disassembling, hosing & reassembling. Similar to the cartridge filters, ensure the pump is off and any valves are closed beforehand. Clean, re-assemble, open the valves and bleed the air to finish!

If you’re not sure how or confident to do these contact us to do it for you…Call us on 9769 3252 or book online here

# 5 Check pump impeller

*Never take your pump apart! this can void the warranty and cause further damage. Contact us to have a professional look over your equipment.

The impeller is essentially a spinning, hollow disc that draws in water at the centre and spins it out at high pressure. If your pump impeller is clogged, it will not be able to move as much water through its 'veins' (see image). This blockage is usually caused by a broken or split pump basket.

Turn the pump off, take the pump lid off and remove the pump basket. Use a small tool or your fingers to remove any debris from the impeller.

If you’re still having continued issues with your pool’s water flow, the fastest and simplest way to find a solution is to call or visit our shop staff who are always on hand to help troubleshoot, don’t forget to bring in a water sample with you, alternatively, you can call us to book a service or click below to request online.

Prepare your spa for Winter

For many of us, the arrival of cooler weather means putting the cover on the swimming pool and preparing the spa for regular winter use.

If your spa has been out of use over the Summer, here are a few easy steps that will have it ready for the cooler months ahead.

STEP 1:

If your spa has a cover, remove it and clean it.

STEP 2:

Even though it is treated, spa water needs to be emptied and replaced every three or four months. The start of the winter season is a good time to do this. Add BioGuard SPA Defence while filling. This will help protect spa equipment and prevent stains caused by metals in the water.

STEP 3:

Once you’ve filled the spa, start it up following your manufacturer’s directions. Then add BioGuard SPA Crystal Clear and allow the water to circulate for about five minutes. Follow this with either BioGuard SPA Perfect Balance or the correct mineral balancing chemicals.

STEP 4:

After the water has circulated for about 30 minutes, add BioGuard SPA Purity to oxidise the water, then add the initial dose of your preferred spa sanitiser as detailed in the product’s start-up instructions.

STEP 5:

You will need to test the water to check the balance; you should have a chlorine residual of 2-3 ppm or bromine residual of 4-6 ppm.

An optional extra step is to add BioGuard SPA Velvet, which improves the feel of the water, reduces the chance of red eyes and irritated skin and helps reduce chemical use.

STEP 6:

Once you’ve started up your spa for the season, ongoing maintenance is straightforward. Just circulate the water each day, keep the filter clean and get rid of contaminants such as dirt, scale and oil from the waterline by using BioGuard SPA Squeaky Clean.

It’s also a good idea to bring a sample of your spa water to us once a month for testing and advice.

Don’t forget, it’s important to clean your filter every 4 to 6 weeks to remove debris. BioGuard Filter Renew is the perfect product for this.

How to Winterise your pool

Now that autumn has arrived, and winter is fast approaching, your pool usage has probably declined. However, just because your pool has shut up shop for the season doesn’t mean you can forget about it… doing so might leave you with a green pool, costing you much more than preventative maintenance would.

SO, HOW DO YOU GET YOUR POOL READY FOR WINTER?

STEP 1. CLEAN IT

Remove all debris from the water, skimmer, pump basket and filters. If anything is left to sink to the bottom it can stain the surface and be a real pain to clean.

STEP 2. CHECK ALL EQUIPMENT

Ensure the pump is working and there is no calcium build-up on the chlorination cell. Try using BioGuard Salt Cell Cleaner to remove any calcification.

Throughout the cooler months, you’ll still need the pump, filter and chlorinator to run for at least 4 hours a day If needed, we can always service your pool equipment.

STEP 3. BACKWASH YOUR FILTER

To clean contaminants from the filter, you’ll need to backwash the filter. Follow these basic steps to backwash your filter properly:

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘BACKWASH’ & open any valves on your waste line

• Turn the pump ON & run for 1-2 minutes or until the sight glass is clear.

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘RINSE’

• Turn the pump ON & run for 1-2 minutes or until the sight glass is clear.

• Turn the pump OFF

• Move the Multiport Valve handle to ‘FILTER’

• Turn the pump ON and set the timer to automatic.

STEP 4. BALANCE THE WATER

Everything in your pool becomes more efficient with properly balanced water. You’re primarily defending against algae outbreaks, but the surface and equipment will also last longer.

If you need to shock your pool, try using BioGuard’s Burn Out Extreme. It’s easy to use, is great for shocking or treating pools with chlorine demands and/or algae problems.

STEP 5. ADD A PHOSPHATE REMOVER

Although your pool might not contain algae, the addition of a phosphate remover like Pool Tonic eliminates its food source. No phosphates = no algae.

STEP 6. ADD A LONG TERM ALGAECIDE

A long-lasting algaecide like Bioguard MSA will kill algae & continue to remain active in the water for up to 3 months. This means that you won’t have to worry about any algal blooms while you’re not using the pool which could create a costly clean up when you’re ready to start swimming again.

STEP 7. USE YOUR POOL COVER

If you don’t have one, now is the time to invest. A cover protects your pool from debris, elements and evaporation. Let’s be honest, no one wants to be skimming and vacuuming when it’s freezing outside. Read our article about the benefits of pool covers here

STEP 8. CONTINUE BASIC MAINTENANCE

Continue to check the water chemistry and filter gauge every two weeks, adjusting where necessary.

Every so often, it’s a good idea to bring a water sample to us to give it the full once over.

FOR MORE POOL & SPA TIPS, PROMOTIONS AND INFORMATION, FOLLOW OUR FACEBOOK PAGE HERE

Which temperature to set your spa in Winter

How hot should you have your spa? There aren’t many nicer things than slipping into a warm, bubbling spa. But when it comes to setting your water temperature, how hot is too hot?

Before you touch your control panel, there are a few factors to consider: safety, budget and personal preference. Finding the perfect balance can take some fine-tuning, so to save you some time, we have formulated this guide to heating your spa.

As there are a wide range of models on the market and the way you control the heating system varies. Some models even enable you to manage your spa temperature remotely with your smartphone.

New spa models will generally prevent you from increasing the water temperature too high as a safety precaution. Your maximum spa temperature should not exceed 38°C, and bather time in spas at this temperature should be no longer than 15 minutes. Any water temperature above this level is considered unsafe for adults to swim in and can cause harm to bathers.

DOES WATER TEMPERATURE MATTER?

Water temperature is a personal preference, and we recommend you do some experimentation between the safe levels of 36°C to 38°C. You need to be careful, however, about keeping the water within the safe range, so you don’t damage your body.* We also recommend having a spa thermometer on hand to double check the temperature before using your spa.

ENERGY EFFICIENCY

One of the main concerns of a spa owner is how to prevent an astronomical energy bill. For this reason, it may be tempting to keep your spa at a significantly lower temperature when you’re not using it. Doing this, however, could cost you more! Constantly turning your spa temperature up and down will use more power and can also wreak havoc on the heating element.

Instead, turn the temperature down only slightly when your spa isn’t in use, and keep your spa cover on. This minimises energy wastage by using unnecessary energy to keep your spa at a higher temperature when it’s not in use and it also keeps the water warm enough so when you’re ready to heat it up again, only a small amount of energy is required to reheat the already warm water, rather than the huge power surge that would be required to heat up cold water.

FINDING THE SWEET SPOT

Finding your perfect spa temperature will require some experimentation, but we suggest starting at 37°C (the average body temperature) and then altering it from there if it’s too chilly or too hot.

* It’s important to know that prolonged periods in hot water can present a risk to any swimmer, especially if they have a pre-existing health condition. So, if you have a health condition, it’s a good idea first to discuss the suitability with your healthcare provider before you jump in.

Original article posted by Bioguard

Ozone kills 99.9% viruses and bacteria

Ozone can be viewed as the most powerful oxidising and disinfecting agent available for pool & spa water treatment*. Ozone will act as the primary oxidiser and disinfectant destroying impurities and microorganisms allowing the pool owner to reduce the chlorine demand needed in their pool.

• Ozone destroys 99.9% of viruses and bacteria

• If pool water is treated only with chlorine takes approximately 16 minutes for viruses to be killed.

• Ozone Swim is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria

• Ozone can be viewed as the most powerful oxidising and disinfecting agent available for pool & spa water treatment

Ozone, is the key component of a Mineral Swim system that destroys 99.9% of viruses and bacteria and has been proven to kill viruses including SARS which has an almost identical structure to COVID-19. Ozone is widely used in many industries where germs are likely to spread, including Aquatic Centres, Hospitals and the Airline Industry.

Ozone Swim is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria than chlorine making it one of the most powerful and effective sanitation systems on the market.

If pool water is treated just with chlorine alone, at certain levels, it will take approximately 16 minutes for viruses to be killed.

Viruses are chlorine resistant, meaning they are not easily destroyed by chlorine alone. However, when combined with a secondary sanitation system like Ozone Swim the risk of contracting a virus is significantly decreased.

“Ozone is a stronger oxidiser than chlorine, it substantially reduces chlorine demand and allows chlorine to be more efficient in residual disinfection allowing for lower chlorine levels…”

Effect of Ozone on Bacteria & Viruses

Ozone is a water purification system that’s 10 x stronger than chlorine as a disinfectant & kills bacteria on contact leaving no residual traces as chlorine does. It’s the residual from chlorine (combined chlorine/chloramine) that’s responsible for that nasty smell and irritating the skin and eyes.

Viruses are different, unlike bacteria, they multiply only within the host cell and they transform proteins of that host cell into proteins of their own. Ozone destroys viruses by diffusing through the protein coat into the nucleic acid core resulting in damage to the virus.

What about other Health Benefits?

Ozone has many other well-documented health benefits, the water feels softer to swim in, it's gentle on the skin and the eyes, particularly for the 1 in 4 Australians that suffer from a skin condition like eczema & psoriasis and finally, it’s a natural flocculant so your water clarity will be crystal clear.

Fun Fact: All bottled water is treated by ozone!

*Recognised by The World Health Organisation (WHO)

Which pool type is best for you?

Which is chlorination (sanitation) type is best for your pool and your family? There are a multitude of different options available to choose from so we break down the benefits and drawbacks of each one along with our preferred options, allowing you to make a more informed choice when choosing your type of pool.

Chlorine

A Chlorine only pool (in this instance), is one where either liquid or powdered chlorine is manually or automatically added to the water regularly. Liquid chlorine is the cheapest way to chlorinate your water, however, it is also the bulkiest and most hazardous. The use of an automatic feeder will monitor your pool chlorine level and adjust accordingly. These however are expensive and due to the highly corrosive nature of liquid chlorine, can require a lot of maintenance.

Powdered chlorine is more efficient, safer and easier to handle, however, it is more expensive. It also cannot be manually delivered, with the exception of chlorine tablets, which are compressed forms of powdered chlorine.

All other balances still need to be maintained especially the pH as this is easily affected by the addition of chlorine. Maintaining proper stabiliser & calcium levels with powdered chlorine is also necessary.

Pros - Potentially cheaper

Cons - More work to maintain levels, bulky, hazardous, throws out other balances quickly.

Saltwater

By far the most popular type of pool sanitation in Australia. The use of a saltwater chlorinator to produce chlorine regularly throughout the filtration cycle is both efficient and practical. The constant production of chlorine gas begins to work instantly in the pool water to neutralise algae, bacteria and other organic matter. The process requires the pool water to have a minimum amount of salt in the water, usually anywhere from 2,500 ppm (parts per million) to 5,000ppm depending on the brand and model. If the salt level falls below this level, the production is reduced or even stopped to avoid damage to the unit.

Saltwater chlorinators have an approximate lifespan of about 5 years depending on how long they're used each day and at what output its set to.

Pros - Tried & tested, efficient chlorine production, great if you like salt water!

Cons - No testing of chlorine levels so can build up chlorine too high if left unchecked.

Mineral Pool + Ozone

Fast becoming a very popular option among pool owners, Mineral pools such as Mineral Swim, utilise a two-stage sanitisation process. The first is similar to the saltwater chlorinator which uses minerals instead of salt to produce a small amount of chlorine as well as make the water softer and clearer. It works in conjunction with the Ozone system to neutralise organic material such as algae and bacteria in the water. The Ozone component is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria than chlorine alone.

Pros - Softer & clearer water, low chlorine levels, no 'chlorine smell' perfect for sensitive skin & asthma sufferers.

Cons - More expensive than traditional saltwater systems

Freshwater

The typical 'freshwater' system uses a combination of copper to prevent algae growth and silver to disinfect the water which is infused into the water neutralising bacteria. This type of water purification has been around since the Ancient Greeks discovered that algae wouldn't grow in copper water pots! There is still a very small amount of chlorine that is required to keep the water safe.

Pros - Very low chlorine levels required, soft free water feel

Cons - One of the most expensive options for residential pool water management.

Ultimately, the type of pool comes down to your personal preferences. Do you want ease of maintenance or an amazing swimming experience? Whichever you decide, we can help you find the right system to your pool and ensure it works for you and your family!

Pool & spa chemicals to keep on hand

Ensuring that you have a small stock of pool chemicals on hand for when you can't make it into the pool shop, will keep your pool in good working order and avoid any expensive issues in the future. Here are our top suggestions for which products and how much of each to keep at home.

Test kit & testing reagents

Chlorine, pH & Total Alkalinity are the main balances to keep in check. With a well-stocked test kit, you can make sure the pool is in balance even when you can’t get into the store.

Chlorine / Bromine

We suggest having at least 2 kg of on hand for a pool or 1kg Bromine for a spa (powdered chlorine will last longer and is easier to store than liquid chlorine)

Hydrochloric Acid / pH Reducer

5 litres of Hydrochloric acid will usually last around 4-6 weeks for average-sized pools or 500gms of pH reducer for spas.

Buffer / Total Alkalinity Increaser

2 kgs of pH buffer for pools or 500gms of TA Increaser for spas will last you a month or more, depending on the weather conditions.

Salt & Minerals

Having a few extra bags on hand, ideally, 2-4, will allow you to top up if your chlorinator production drops.

Clarifier

1ltr Quick Clear Liquid clarifier (or 3 - 4 Super Clear clarifying tabs) will help your filter remove organic and inorganic waste.

Oxidiser

1 kg Oxysheen will help the chlorine kill germs and bacteria much faster and efficiently.

Book a pool test and balance online below or
call 03 9769 3252 to keep your pool going over the next few months.

A guide to sanitising your spa

When it comes to treating your spa, a sanitiser will keep your water clean and healthy by destroying any bacteria that develop. Bacteria thrive in a warm moist environment, so the hot water of your spa is the perfect breeding ground. By ensuring that there’s sufficient sanitiser continually present in the water, your spa will be safe every time you use it.

Maintaining your spa’s sanitiser dosage is vital to keeping all bathers safe.

There are a variety of spa sanitisers on the market which can make choosing one confusing but to keep the water safe for you and your family, you want to ensure you’ve got the best! Chlorine and bromine are the two main chemicals that are recognised by Health Authorities as providing the necessary level of safety for bathers. That’s why the sanitisers we stock are either chlorine, bromine, or a combination of the two.

Treat it right

At the start of the season, we recommend bringing in a sample of your spa water to us for a professional state-of-the-art water test. From then on, test your water at home at least once a week, to maintain an active level of sanitiser throughout the season.

You want the sanitiser level to sit around 2-5ppm bromine or 1-3ppm chlorine. If the level drops below the recommended range, bacteria can begin to grow and multiply very quickly. If the level has dropped, add the recommended dosage of your sanitiser to the water (dosage rates differ for spa baths and outdoor spas/hot tubs).

Along with your weekly sanitiser routine, it’s also a good idea to regularly shock your spa during the season. Doing this will destroy any build-up of contaminants in your water.

So which sanitiser best suits your needs?

Indoor spa or pool with attached spa

BioGuard SPA Symmetry® is an ideal product to sanitise your indoor spa, or pool with an attached spa, due to its reduced odour. It consists of a mixture of bromine and chlorine, and when used as directed, its slow, consistent dissolving rate provides a constant and reliable sanitiser level at all times.

Outdoor spa

For an outdoor spa, we suggest BioGuard SPA Armour®. It’s fast-dissolving so you can add it straight into your spa, and its dual action acts as both a sanitiser and oxidiser. Keeping not only your water clean but also clearing cloudy water.

If you’re unsure about the sanitiser dosage rate for your spa contact us for our expert advice.

Quarterly deep clean

It’s also important to note that your spa should be drained every quarter. It will need a deep clean to cut through any stains or biofilm build-up (biofilm harbours bacteria). For this, add a dose of BioGuard SPA Swirl Away®, turn on the pump for circulation, then drain the water and refill it with fresh water.

Keeping your spa water sanitised doesn’t have to be hard, if you keep on top of your water balance you can soak trouble-free all season!

How to make the most of your spa in autumn

It’s time to pull off the cover and enjoy a revitalising and relaxing spa! However, if you’ve neglected your spa for a few weeks or maybe a few months, there are a few simple things you’ll need to do to get everything ready!

1. Your spa cover

While keeping out dirt, leaves and bugs, the cover also acts as a seal for your spa. So if you’re removing the cover for the first time in a while, it’s a good idea to give your spa a good airing.

At the same time, give the cover a clean, with a simple wipe with warm soapy water.

2. Treat the water

Many spa manufacturers have a specific start-up procedure to make sure everything is working fine. We recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions at all times.

If you’re re-filling your spa, ensure the water is circulating before balancing it with products from the BioGuard Spa balancing range.

Use BioGuard Spa Sanitiser, as per label directions and your spa manufacturer’s start-up instructions to sanitise your water and neutralise bugs and germs.

Then add BioGuard Spa Purity to oxidise the water and BioGuard Spa Crystal Clear to really get that water sparkling.

Finally, we recommend adding BioGuard Spa Defence. This will help to protect your spa, pump, and filter and prevent surface staining and build-up.

With the treatment complete, you should have a chlorine level of 2-3 ppm.

We always suggest bringing a sample of your spa water to us and we’ll help you get that balance just right.

3. Run the jets

To maintain water quality in your spa, it’s a good idea to run the jets. This not only helps to regulate the spa temperature but running the jets will pass more water through your filter quickly and help keep your spa clean, just remember to regularly check and clean/change the filter as required.

If you are not going to fully cover the spa between spa sessions, running the jets and circulating the water regularly is important to filter out the dirt, dust and debris that fall in.

4. Set the temperature

Spas are designed to heat water to the perfect temperature for you to enjoy, obviously this takes time, so planning ahead is key. Your maximum spa temperature should not exceed 38°C, and bather time in spas at this temperature should be no longer than 15 minutes.

Finding your perfect spa temperature will require some experimentation, but we suggest starting at 37°C (the average body temperature) and then altering it slightly from there.

Constantly turning your spa temperature up and down will use more power and can also wreak havoc on the heating element. Rather, turn the temperature down only slightly when your spa isn’t in use, and keep your spa cover on. This minimises energy wastage and will keep the water warm enough so when you’re ready to heat it up again, only a small amount of energy is required to reheat the already warm water, rather than the huge power surge that would be required to heat up cold water.

*This one is optional! Cold spas are incredibly refreshing at any time of year. Depending on the make and model, this may simply prevent the heating element from turning on, but in some cases, your spa can actively cool the water.

If you really want to refresh yourself… you can drop the temperature even further by adding ice, this won’t damage your spa or spa surfaces, but we still recommend adding it in small increments, so you can more easily control the chemistry of your spa.

Types of chlorine for your pool

Bacteria can grow in any untreated body of water with swimmers being the primary source of contaminants along with rainwater, leaves, grass, dust and pets.

Having a sanitiser in your pool or spa at recommended levels will eliminate most of the bacteria in the water. The neutralised bacteria is then filtered out & any residual sanitiser left in the water will continue to work to prevent new bacteria growth.

Sanitiser = Chlorine

The recommended Chlorine level in a standard outdoor pool is between 2.5 - 3.0ppm (parts per million) with heated pools and spas requiring a higher level of sanitiser than non-heated pools. This is because sanitisers are consumed more quickly in hot water.

*Please note: The majority of the information in this article is for swimming pools. For more information on sanitising your spa, please click below.

Types of Sanitisers

Each form of chlorine and its production has its own individual features, pros and cons. Our knowledgeable staff can happily help you work out which form of sanitation is best for your pool/spa and lifestyle.

Liquid Chlorine

(Sodium Hypochlorite)

It is most commonly available as a liquid. Liquid chlorine is the most economical and can be dosed automatically, however, the storage containers are bulky and liquid chlorine has a limited shelf life due to loss of strength over time from heat and sunlight. It also has a naturally high pH level of 13 which will always increase the pH of a pool or spa, requiring it to be rebalanced after each dose.

Granular Chlorine

Granular chlorine is a more convenient option compared with liquid chlorine as it's more concentrated and easier to store. However, it’s more expensive and cannot be dosed using an automatic feeder unless it is in tablet form via a float and comes in 2 common forms Calcium Hypochlorite and Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Available in granular or tablet form, has between 60-70% available chlorine (effective chlorine content). As it is made up of Calcium, continual use will increase your Calcium Hardness levels over time which can affect your pool surface. The ideal Calcium Hardness levels for concrete and pebble surfaces are between 200-400, Fibreglass between 120-250 and Vinyl liners 20-150. If these levels become too high, scale formation on the pool surface is possible.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.7ppm increase in your Calcium Hardness level.

Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate - Also available in granular or tablet form, is usually about 50-60% available chlorine. This form of chlorine also contains Cyanuric Acid or 'stabiliser'. Continual use of Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate will continually increase your level of Cyanuric Acid and these can potentially get too high and cause a 'chlorine block' whereby it inhibits the ability of your chlorine to work effectively.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.9ppm increase in your stabiliser level. For an uncovered, salt or chlorine pool, the ideal Cyanuric acid level is between 40-60.

Types of chlorine production

Automatic Chlorinators

Chlorine can also be generated by salt or mineral chlorinators. Chlorinators use a process called electrolysis. In a saltwater chlorinator, it works by using an electrical charge to 'split' the Sodium Chloride (Salt) into Sodium and Chlorine. It is circulated into the pool so it can kill bacteria and viruses and prevent algae growth around the pool.

Eventually, this natural form of chlorine is used up and reverts back to the original two elements of sodium and chlorine = salt.

Common Misconceptions - SALT IS USED UP IN CHLORINE PRODUCTION

Salt chlorinators do not use up the salt to create chlorine. Saltwater chlorination is closed-loop system, the salt isn’t used up in the process as it reverts back to Sodium Chloride (Salt) and repeats the process all over again.

Low Chlorine Systems

These systems are fast becoming very popular. They’re a much healthier alternative to manually adding chlorine or using a saltwater chlorinator. It’s great for people who have an intolerance to chlorine or who live with conditions such as asthma or eczema. These are sanitising systems that produce only a very small amount of chlorine and use other techniques such as Ioniser or Ozone systems to keep the pool clean, clear & healthy.

These systems require a much lower level of chlorine as a primary sanitiser, as they also use either an Ionising rod or an Ozone generator to produce a secondary sanitiser which is often much more effective than chlorine & creates a "fresher" or more natural feeling water.

Click below to learn about the Mineral Swim System or contact us to find out which low-chlorine system would be right for your pool.

Common Misconceptions - Chlorine Odour

A strong chlorine smell doesn’t always mean too much chlorine, it could mean too little. The odour is produced by chloramines and these can also cause sore eyes and itchy skin. To remove chloramines, it can be as simple as super chlorination or the use of a non-chlorine Oxidiser like Oxysheen for pools and Purity for Spas, however, it’s always best to have your water tested first, come in and see one of our staff with a water sample

How to make your pool more energy efficient

Making your pool more energy efficient will not only help reduce your impact on the environment but can also save you a lot of money over the course of a year! Not all upgrades have to cost a lot to make a difference, so here are six of the best, most practical, simple, and smart ways to reduce your pool’s power requirements and prevent spending more than you need.

1. Install a Variable Speed Pump

Variable speed pumps save money by giving you the ability to reduce the power consumed by reducing the speed of the pump. Compared to conventional single-speed pumps, the Viron XT pump will save you anywhere between $700 and $1,200 every year in operating costs.

2. Use a Robotic cleaner

The way robotic cleaners save you money is by reducing the filtration time required, which in turn requires less backwashing or filter cleaning which can typically use up to 20,000 litres each year!

3. Prevent water evaporation & heat loss

During summer, your pool may lose as much as 25mm of water per day, through evaporation. Additionally, 80% of your pool’s heat can also be lost through evaporation. This comes with dual costs – the cost of the water to top up your pool and the expense of heating it. Using a pool cover (yes, especially in summer) will help – as will windbreaks around your pool like trees or larger potted plants (a mere 10km/h wind blowing across the pool’s surface can cause dramatic evaporation).

4. LED pool lights

Most of us have swapped the globes around our homes to energy-efficient LEDs, but what about around the pool? Modern lighting can draw around 80% less power than conventional lighting. Plus, you can also change colours at the tap of a screen.

5. Your filtration system

The more debris there is in your pool, the harder your pump and filter will have to work and therefore, use more energy. So regular cleaning of your pool and filter will help everything work more efficiently. You can also upgrade your old sand filter media to glass media and this will further reduce the amount of time needed to backwash & rinse.

6. Move to the dark side

If you’re about to build, renovate or install a pool, darker-coloured pools absorb the sun’s warmth more than lighter-coloured pools. If you’re keen on saving energy, money and the environment, they’re worth considering. And with plenty of LED lighting installed, they look especially magnificent at night.

Saving the buck stops with you

It might seem obvious, but if you only use your pool on weekends, reduce your temperature settings for weekdays by about 8–10˚. Similarly, if you’re away on holiday, you don’t want to heat the pool back home if no one’s using it.

And while most of us really only think of using the pool cover in winter, to stop debris falling in the pool, it’s a good idea to use it in summer, especially if the pool isn’t going to be used for an extended period. Note Point 3 above, about ‘evaporation’.

At the end of the day, it’s about saving energy, saving money, and saving the environment. With nearly 1.5 million of us lucky enough to own a pool or spa, and around 100,000 more being installed every year, reducing the amount of energy our pools use is good for everyone.

We want you to have as much safe enjoyment of your pool and spa as possible. However, importantly, the enjoyment that doesn’t cost the earth.

Benefits of Robotic Pool Cleaners

Robotic pool cleaners clean the pool better, are easier to use, and are more efficient saving on energy and chemical costs. Take the cleaning of your pool to a whole new level.

Robotic pool cleaners are amazing, but did you know that they can also reduce your water wastage by up to 80% or over 13,000 liters each year as well?

The way robotic pool cleaners save you money is by reducing the filtration time required, which in turn requires less backwashing or filter cleaning. This can typically use up to 20,000 liters each year!

Using a robotic pool cleaner it will also put much less strain on the pump and filter as the operating pressures are usually considerably lower when the filter is clean. You can also, add a Variable Speed Pump as you won't need the higher water flow to keep a suction cleaner going.

Suction cleaners such as a Kreepy Krauly or Baracuda require a high water flow rate to operate. You may notice when your suction cleaner 'stops working', sometimes a quick backwash will get it moving again. A robotic cleaner, however, runs independently of the pool pump and filtration system under its own power, so it isn't at the mercy of the other components.

Robotic cleaners such as the Dolphin M600 provide the most effective all-around pool clean. They are programmed to ensure they cover the entire pool from the floor, to the walls and even the tile line. They have great suction for the large debris, internal filters for the very fine dust and dirt, as well as scrubbing, and brushes it help remove the stubborn debris in pebble surfaces and grout lines

In addition to saving money on your water bills, if a Dolphin robotic cleaner is paired with a variable-speed pool pump, there are huge potential power savings to be had. Lower running power consumption paired with the robot will keep your pool just as clean and filtered (if not more!)

These cleaners are also a great way to lower the environmental impact of owning a swimming pool, and in some cases, it may also help achieve a carbon-neutral running of your pool.

If you'd like to make your pool as green (in an environmental sense that is) as possible we suggest a combination of a variable-speed pool pump, glass filter media, a Mineral Swim system, and of course a robotic pool cleaner. These combined will ensure you have the smallest water, chemical, and power consumption possible.

Maytronics cleaners are Climate Care Certified. This is the swimming pool industry’s new efficiency and sustainability certification program. The Climate Care Certification Program is an initiative of the Swimming Pool & Spa Association of Australia Ltd (SPASA). Click here to find out more about the program.

Pool Maintenance Tips

Maintenance of your pool & spa equipment is important all year round, and especially after a party or weather event like a storm. Here is a quick list of the main things to check, so your pool and equipment keep working at their best.

Cleaning Equipment

Check your leaf rake nets for splits and tears, these can be replaced separately either in-store or at home with just a screwdriver (and a lot of patience). Cracks in the frame of leaf rakes and brushes happen when the residual chlorinated water remains on them as well as damage from the sun’s UV rays.

Pumps

Check for any signs of leakage, most commonly found underneath. There is a mechanical seal that can begin to leak and become noisy with age. If you find a leak this means the seal needs to be replaced.

Also check the pump basket for cracks as this can allow fine debris through, clogging the inside of the pump, and restricting or even stopping the flow of water.

Filters

Media filters should be backwashed, they can also be cleaned and degreased as they benefit greatly from this because not everything is expelled with a backwash.

Cartridge and DE filters require a good hose out and should also be degreased to maintain their efficiency and make them last longer.

Those with glass media are the easiest filters to clean as they don't require any degreasing. Just a good backwash then rinse and you'll be good to go again.

Check the Multiport Valve for any leaks, the most common place to find them is water coming up through the handle area as well as from around the collar where it joins to the tank.

The tank of the filter can fatigue over time from being under constant high pressures, be sure to run your eye and hands over the whole tank for leaks and stress cracks. Check the pressure gauge for correct pressure readings e.g. When the pump is off, it should be at 0 and when on, it is operating in the normal range.

Salt Chlorinator

A good cleaning of the cell is important, even if it is 'self-cleaning'. This will remove the excess Calcium buildup that can attach itself to the plates that prevent proper chlorine production & the sensor which can give you false readings.

Simply mix a very dilute acid:water mix of 1 part acid to 10 parts water in a bucket and put the cell into the mix, ensure that the acid/water solution only touches the plates and not over the cap onto the leads.

*Always add acid to water, never water to acid as this can splash the acid onto you!!

Check the power connections on the cap to ensure there are no exposed wires and they aren't stripped or damaged.

Pool Cleaners

There are a lot of wearing parts on suction cleaners including skirts, soles, swivels, floats, and hoses on suction cleaners to rollers and baskets on robotic cleaners. Usually, a visual inspection of the cleaner will easily show parts in need of repair, though if they just aren’t working like they used to, you can bring the whole unit into us and we’ll give it the professional once over or you can have us come to you and make sure it’s covering the whole pool.

Water Balance

A home test kit will check your chlorine, pH, and alkalinity levels. Ensure they are in the ideal range and balance where required.

Alternatively, by bringing a water sample into our shop, we'll be able to test for all the balances that can affect your water quality and ensure that you have the perfect balance to keep your water clear!

*IMPORTANT - This is only a guide for what we suggest to check. If you are unfamiliar with your equipment and/or its operation, please contact us. We can either help you learn more or come and check your equipment for you. More damage can be done by removing or uninstalling any parts of the filtration system and voiding any warranties you may have.

Robotic Pool Cleaner Maintenance

Robotic cleaners are superior pool cleaners to suction and pressure pool cleaners. They make doing a lot of the hard work of keeping your pool clean look easy. So what should you do to help your cleaner keep cleaning at its best? Here are a few simple maintenance tips to keep it running at its best!

Robotic cleaners such as the Dolphin M600 have an internal filter that collects the leaves, sticks and dust from your pool. This filters the water down to as little as 15 microns (*a micron is 1,000th of a millimetre) which is fine enough to filter out almost everything! If you have a sand filter or better yet a glass media filter as well, this will pick up everything else down to 2 microns in some cases! They have rotating brushes to scrub the walls and floor and tracks to grip the pool surface that all need to be maintained.

Baskets

The first thing to do is to take out the cleaner from the pool and remove the filter basket. This is a simple process usually done by opening the top casing to access the filter. Empty the filter basket of the larger debris and then hose from the outside until it’s visually clean.

Cleaning

The next step of maintenance is to hose down the whole unit, ensuring that you get into all the scrubbers and wheels, gently turning them as you go to get all built-up dust and dirt.

Visual inspection

As you go, check the wheels, tracks and brushes to ensure that they’re still in good condition, any signs of damage to these parts should be replaced and any loose connections should also be reviewed by a professional to ensure it doesn’t cause further damage and a more expensive repair.

Cables and Swivels

The power supply cable can show signs of wear and tear from dragging across sharp edges of the pool and the swivel (if fitted) may also become stuck or too loose.

Final step

Return the filter basket to the cleaner, keep the power supply cord neat and kink-free, and then store it in the shade and in its ‘caddy’ where possible. Some newer cleaners are designed to stay in the pool so they can be returned to the water once back together.

These simple steps will help you not only extend the life of your cleaner but will make sure it’s doing the best job possible.

Just like your car, we suggest having a yearly service done by a pool professional. Contact us today or bring your cleaner down to us in-store to have your robotic cleaner serviced.

*1 micron = red blood cell.

Variable Speed Pool Pumps

Variable speed pool pumps are saving pool owners hundreds of dollars each year, though how exactly does variable speed pump work? Why are they so good? And how much will one actually save you?

A single-speed 1.5hp pump will start up and then run at a consistent speed, flow rate, and power consumption level for the entire time. More often than not, it's pumping more than what is effectively required, costing you money. For this comparison, we have used the Astral Viron P320 XT Variable Speed Pump to show you the difference between variable-speed pumps and single-speed pool pumps.

Variable Speed Pump technology

A variable speed pump such as the Astral Viron P320 XT allows you to tailor the flow rate to suit your pool and filtration requirements. Once a pool pump has started up and the water moving, it’s about keeping the water circulating as efficiently as possible, this is where the variable speeds come into play.

By reducing the speed of the pump, you're reducing the power consumption, as well as the flow rate, though this can be set to whichever setting is most effective.

The challenge for swimming pool filtration design is that 90% of the time, effective filtration and circulation of the pool water is achieved with a gentle flow rate of between 120 to 200 litres a minute. Occasionally, however, vacuuming, backwashing, and specific applications such as water features, spa jets and in-floor cleaning require higher flow rates and pressures.

The Viron XT has 4 flow settings

• Overdrive - up to 600 liters/min

• High Speed - 2850 RPM (around 400 liters/min, great for backwashing)

• Medium Speed - 2000 RPM (around 200-300 liters/min, ideal for larger pools or where equipment is much lower than the pool level)

• Low Speed - 1125 RPM (around 100-150 liters/min, perfect for smaller pools with equipment nearby)

Power Savings

If you were to halve the speed of your pump, the flow rate will also halve however, the energy consumed drops by more than 85%. Compared to conventional single-speed pumps, the Viron XT pump will save you anywhere between $700 and $1,200 every year in operating costs, which, over the life of the pump will pay for itself many times over!

Benefits of the Viron XT Variable Speed Pump

• Two sizes to suit the most demanding applications

• Save between $700 and $1,200 every year in operating costs

• High-performance overdrive mode and fast priming programs Reduce carbon emissions

• Whisper-quiet operation

• Longer pump and equipment life

Comparison between 1.5hp pump vs Variable Speed Viron P320 XT

• Viron Annual Operating Cost* $818

• Viron Annual Saving $809

• Viron Saving over 7 years $5,663

Environmentally Friendly

Warranty

Built in Australia for Australian conditions the Viron XT Pumps are covered by a limited 3 year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship.

Astral Viron XT Variable Speed Pool Pumps

*Annual operating cost based on operating pumps at factory preset low speed for 8 hours a day, each day of the year. Actual operating costs may vary according to time spent on higher speeds and the actual speed required to effectively circulate water throughout the pool, filtration, and plumbing system.

Pool Filter - Glass Media

Pool Filters have evolved significantly over the last 20 years. The move toward glass media filters and away from sand or zeolite media, cartridge filters and DE or Diatomaceous Earth filters which are labour intensive, have too many wearing parts and can be expensive to repair.

Cartridge filters require at least monthly cleaning. DE filters required monthly backwashing, and recharging of the DE powder inside the filter. Then the DE filter required quarterly stripping and cleaning of the filter.

Today we estimate 90% of pools are filtered by media filters.

Now, the sand filter has seen another makeover that has improved the quality and clarity of the water you swim in. Glass offers a much finer filtration, which relates directly to clearer water.

Regular questions from customers are "Why should I change to a media filter?" and if they already have a sand filter "Why should I upgrade to the glass media?"

"Why should I change to a media filter?"

It's much less effort...

Media filters require much less maintenance than the other filter types. These filters only require backwashing. This procedure takes at the very most just five minutes and is usually only done every two to three months.

It's more economical...

The initial outlay is more expensive than a cartridge filter however, the ongoing costs are minimal. Doing your research and buying a reputable brand from an authorised pool store is your best course of action. By buying from a pool shop, you will get the right filter for your pool size, pump size and the option of media as well as the full manufacturer’s warranty!

Improved warranty and material durability...

Most filter tanks come with a manufacturer’s warranty of 10 years. The media is also good for the life of the filter, though this depends greatly on water quality and debris that enters the pool over the years.

Our Suggestions…

We supply and install Astral Filters. They're manufactured in Melbourne and are at the forefront of industry technology with over 40 years of experience.

Astral Pools CA Media Filter range provides the best value for money filter range which is designed for tough Australian conditions.

Astral Pools FG Media Filter has been designed to provide high-performance filtration for residential and small commercial pools.

When used in conjunction with Activated Filter Media (AFM®) you're water will never have looked so crystal clear.

View fullsize

Click to enlarge

AFM ng offers superior filtration (200% better than sand) and prevents the transmission of bacteria.

• Made from pure selected glass which is safe to touch, and won’t cut you.

• Exposed to a patented 3-step activation process which makes the glass self-sterilising to prevent transmission of pathogens.

• Developed by Marine Biologists who specialise in Aquarium and Water Treatment systems.

• AFM ng prevents the formation of harmful chlorine trichloramines, so your customers can breathe easy.

• With a certified 1-micron filtration rate (that is incredibly small!!), AFM ng is certified to surpass the performance of any sand or other glass filter media to provide exceptional water clarity.

"Why should I upgrade to the glass media?"

Quality...

Glass filter media will provide the finest filtering media available. Providing you with clearer, healthier pool water.

Environment...

Glass is non-porous, self-sterilising and can trap 30% more bacteria and organic material so it cannot flourish or grow within the filter. Backwashing will be required less often and when you do it will be more efficient, using less water.

Increases your options for healthier water...

Having glass media in your filter allows you the luxury to choose a mineral pool over a salt pool. Mineral-laden water is far healthier for you and the environment. Read more about the benefits of a mineral pool here.

Final thoughts...

If you want to reduce your pool filter maintenance and have minimal ongoing costs, install a media filter. If the media filter decision has already been made, then why not experience the clearest pool water available and choose glass?

Glass pool filter media is the clear winner.

Benefits of Pool Covers in Melbourne

Pool covers are becoming more and more popular as they're the best way to reduce dirt and debris getting into the pool as well as saving you hundreds of dollars in excess water bills by preventing evaporation. They're also great at retaining heat to extend the swimming season.

Evaporation reduction is the main benefit of installing a pool cover as an average 8 x 4m uncovered Melbourne pool will lose almost 45,000 litres of water each year and up to 80,000 litres of water each year if it’s heated all year round.

The 4 main factors that affect evaporation rates from domestic outdoor pools are:

Pool surface area
The bigger the pool, the more surface area, therefore, a greater evaporation volume.

The temperature of the water and air
The highest evaporation rates occur when the differences between water and air temperatures are the greatest. Surprisingly this may not be in the middle of a hot day when the pool is in use as at this point in time, the water and air temperatures may be quite close. Whereas, later at night, the pool water may remain warm, but the air temperature has fallen substantially which means a greater temperature difference between the air and water and therefore greater evaporation.

Humidity
As is typical in most parts of Victoria we have relatively low humidity. The drier the air is, the greater the evaporation rate. In very humid conditions less evaporation occurs.

Wind
The other significant factor for home pool evaporation is wind. A gentle breeze of just 11 kilometres per hour can more than double the evaporation rate by removing the insulating layer of warm, moist air directly above the pool surface.

Here are 4 reasons why you need a pool cover:

Saves water

While evaporation rates vary greatly depending on a range of factors including volume of water and location, an average 8 x 4m uncovered Victorian pool will lose almost 45,000 litres of water each year and up to 80,000 litres of water each year if it’s heated all year round. A pool cover will save you money by reducing your water bill by approx. 45,000 litres / year from having to top up from the tap.

Keeps pool water clean

Pulling the cover over your pool after each use will save you a lot of time cleaning out leaves, dirt and other debris that would be blown into the water if it wasn’t covered. This ensures it’s clean and clear when you’re ready to use it.

Reduces chemical loss

Chemically balancing the water is one of the most costly and time-consuming parts of owning a pool. By installing a pool cover, the need for the chemicals such as chlorine and salt can be reduced by up to 50% by preventing the chemicals from evaporating into the atmosphere and keeping them in the water for longer.

Keeps the heat in = Reduces heating costs

The pool cover acts as a barrier between the cold air and the warmer pool water. A pool cover will increase heat retention by up to 75 per cent, reducing CO² emissions and saving on power normally used to run a heat pump, solar or gas system, as the heat they generate won’t be instantly lost. It also means the system won’t have to work as hard, so you can reduce running times and costs.

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So how much water am I losing?

According to the official Bureau of Meteorology long term, historical evaporation rates in Melbourne, measured at the airport over our hottest 6 months October - March is an average of 6.4mm / square meter.

This means the Mean Melbourne Daily Evaporation on a 40,000 litre uncovered pool is approx. 205 litres/day!

The cost of topping up

Depending on your water pressure the average backyard hose (according to the NSW Govt.) is approx. 17 litres per minute. So with this in mind, as an example, an average pool in Summer may take topping up for 10 minutes a day, every second day. This would use: 17 litres x 10 minutes x 15 days = 2,550 litres each month!

Ok... how much will a pool cover save me?

If a pool cover is used diligently it will save up to 95% of your water evaporation saving a 40sq/m pool from losing 53,200 litres each year. That's a lot of money saved on water bills! Also, when it does rain, all that water will still go into the pool, effectively topping it up.

You’ll also notice the reduction in your chemical costs, with lower levels of chlorine and no stabilizer needed (if the cover is always on when not swimming), you can potentially save hundreds of dollars each year on your pool chemical spending as well.

References:
Sunbather National Evaporation Download.pdf
Daisy Evaporation Fact Sheet.pdf

Green pool water and Phosphates

Green water or algae on the walls is generally a sign of low chlorine, however, it is usually accompanied by a high level of phosphate in the water as well… So what is phosphate and how do you get rid of it?

Phosphates can be a problem all year round and slowly build up over time, however, we typically see a spike in the levels of phosphates in pools when wind and storms bring in microscopic dust particles from the farming & rural areas.

What Are Phosphates?

Phosphates are essentially food for algae and other aquatic organisms which they depend on it to grow.

The association between algae and phosphate is recognised as a major factor in the presence of algae in swimming pools despite the use of chlorine and other sanitisers.

The biggest issues for swimming pool owners from increased phosphate levels are excessive or stubborn algae blooms and rapid chlorine consumption.

How Do Phosphates Get in the Pool?

Phosphates can enter your pool a few different ways: leaves, twigs, dirt, dust and bugs blown in from the wind or washed into the pool from heavy rain along with grass clippings, fertilisers and pesticides used around the pool. They also come from swimmers’ body wastes and adding water to the pool from water tanks. All of these can increase the levels of phosphate in the pool water which will give algae plenty of food to grow.

Removing Phosphates

BioGuard Phos Kill will remove phosphates from pool water, preventing algae growth by removing the food source. This also makes pool sanitation more efficient against algae and can reduce chlorine consumption.

Once the phosphates have been removed, it's important to maintain a low phosphate level. This will ensure clean water, better chlorine performance and no algae. All living things, including algae in swimming pools, need phosphate to survive and grow. Maintaining a low phosphate level and increasing the chlorine concentration will result in fewer algae problems in your pool.

Preventing Phosphates in the future

As additional insurance against recurring algae, BioGuard Pool Complete is an easy weekly maintenance routine that keeps water amazingly clear, prevents waterline build and removes phosphates as they enter the water.

Ideally, you will also:

• Restrict runoff from lawns, landscaping or washing decks entering the pool

• Remove leaves and other debris from the pool regularly

• Use a long-life algaecide such as MSA Extreme or AlgiGuard all year round in conjunction with their phosphate removal treatment

• Get us to regularly test your pool water for phosphates and treat when necessary

We have special test kits to check the level of phosphate in your water, so, should the result of the test exceed the recommended level then we have BioGuard Phos Kill to remove the excess phosphate is now readily available in store.

Bring a water sample to us today and we can check your Phosphate levels along with all your other pool chemical balances for FREE! Alternatively, you can use the button below to book one of our highly trained pool technicians to come to you.

Pool & Spa Safety - CPR

If you have a pool or spa, you must have a CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) sign prominently displayed, ideally in eye-sight of the step area, as this is the most obvious place assistance would take place. 

Knowing CPR can save lives. It’s recommended that pool spa owners should be trained in CPR and have resuscitation skills. Remember, if someone gets into a dangerous situation phone your local emergency services.

Life Saving Victoria has a number of great resources for you to keep your family safe around the pool & spa, allowing you to relax and enjoy it!

Their Resuscitate checklist is:

• Check for danger to self, to bystanders and to the victim (Danger)

• Shout “Are you ok?” and gently squeeze the victim’s shoulder (Response)

• Send for help (Send)

• Clear and maintain airway (Airway)

• Look, listen and feel for breathing (Breathing)

• If no signs of life, commence CPR (Compression)

• If available, grab a defibrillator and follow the prompts (Defibrillation)

View their other pool safety services here - https://lsv.com.au/pool-safety-services

CPR signs

CPR signs must:

• be attached to the safety barrier of the pool or spa, or displayed near the water so that the sign is easily visible to a person near the pool or spa

• be at least 300mm by 300mm in size

• ideally, be made of durable and weatherproof material

• include a prominent statement explaining how to act in an emergency (e.g. call Triple Zero, stay with the injured person, provide first aid).

Please contact us if you require a new CPR sign for your pool area. You can purchase in-store or arrange for us to supply one at our next service.

CPR sign example - Life Saving Victoria

Life Saving Victoria

Life-Saving Victoria’s mission is to prevent aquatic-related death and injury in all Victorian communities. Their Vision is that all Victorians will learn water safety, swimming and resuscitation and be provided with safe aquatic environments and venues.

Visit https://lsv.com.au for more information about the LSV.