Why is my spa cloudy?

If cloudy spa water is a problem, checking you have the correct water balance, sanitiser level, and adequate filtration is the best place to start, follow our tips below to clear it up.

What causes cloudy spa water?

1. High pH

Your spa’s pH level should not be higher than 7.6. If it is, you’ll get scale formation and your sanitising becomes ineffective, causing cloudiness.

2. High alkalinity

When your spa water has alkalinity higher than 150ppm, it begins to form scale and destabilises the pH, again causing cloudy water.

3. High calcium hardness

Ideally, your spa’s calcium hardness will be between 175 to 250 ppm. If the levels are too high, again, you’ll see scale build-up and cloudiness.

Bring in a water sample to us to find out if these are causing your cloudy-ness issues and we'll be able to help you fix up the water balance.

Clear up with BioGuard’s SPA Crystal Clear

It is specifically designed for clarifying cloudy water in spas ensuring your water is always clear and sparkling. It’s an easy-to-use, concentrated formula meaning you save on time as well as money. Other great reasons for using Crystal Clear are:

• It does not contain any alum (no/minimal residue)

• It improves filter efficiency

• It does not affect pH and water balance

And once you have clear water, simply add the recommended dose each week of Crystal Clear to keep your spa... you guessed it, crystal clear!

Combined with using the right product, there are also some simple steps for helping keep cloudy water at bay.

• Fill your clean spa with clean water

• Follow a regular maintenance schedule

• Keep your filter clean

• Regularly sanitise and keep the water balance within the recommended levels

• Regular testing is the most effective way to ensure your spa water stays crystal clear!

• Change the spa water every 3-4 months.

What about foamy water?

Sometimes along with the cloudy spa water foam will form in your spa. Excess foam in your spa is usually a build-up of oils from the body, hairsprays, gels, deodorant, makeup – and if you’ve washed your swimwear in laundry detergent, the residue can cause a foaming spa too. To help prevent this it is a good practice to shower before using the spa to wash away any oils, cosmetics, deodorant, or detergent.

Keep in mind that spas are all different, so make sure you consult your manual for correct equipment operation and maintenance procedures and visit us for expert advice.

If you have any questions about your spa’s water or you’re interested in a specific spa treatment plan, contact us or pop in-store and we'll be happy to help.

Call the shop on 03 9769 3252

Pool & Spa Fences & Gates

Update: 11 October 2021

New compliance certificate dates were deemed necessary to ensure that pool inspections can be done in an orderly and timely manner during the pandemic.

Compliance certificate must be lodged by:

• 1 June 2022 if pool/spa construction date = On or before 30 June 1994

• 1 June 2023 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 July 1994 until 30 April 2010

• 1 June 2024 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 May 2010 until 31 October 2020

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Every pool & spa must have a barrier and every child must be supervised. It only takes a few minutes for pool owners to check that their pool fences and gates, including latches and hinges, are in good working order. This simple routine done regularly could save the life of a child.

Pool and spa fences and barriers are required by legislation for any swimming pool or spa in excess of 300mm (30cm) in depth and must be maintained for the life of the pool or spa, this includes keeping the area around the safety barrier, free from climbable objects or plants that can be used to gain access to the pool area.

The key elements of the relevant Australian Standards are designed to restrict access by unsupervised young children, especially those under 5 years of age, to the swimming pool area.

*IMPORTANT: This is general safety information, Please make sure you are compliant with your local council and State govt. regulations.

SAFETY BARRIERS

• Essentially, a safety barrier can be made of any material that has a reasonable life span when exposed to the likely conditions of weather, pool chemicals, pollution, decay, insects, salt water spray, impacts, etc.

• Safety barriers must have an effective perpendicular minimum height of 1.2 metres.

• Existing boundary fences can be used as a safety barrier provided that they are well maintained, at least 1800mm high measured on the inside of the barrier to a solid finished surface and have no climbable elements within 900mm measured from the top of the inside of the fence.

GATES

• These must open outward only (away from the pool area) and have an effective perpendicular minimum height of 1.2 metres.

• They must return to the closed position and engage the latch automatically from any position and not re-open without using the manual release mechanism.

• The latch release must be at least 1.5 metres above ground level unless it

  • (i) is inside the fence

  • (ii) can only be reached over or through a fence higher than 1.2 metres or

  • (iii) is 300mm below the fence top (no hand hole) or at least 150mm away from the edge of any hand hole opening.

• Latch releases less than 1.5 metres above ground level must be shielded so that no opening greater than 10mm is closer than 450mm.

• Any hand hole shall be at least 1.2 metres above ground level.

WALLS

• External walls of a building can be used as swimming pool barriers so long as they do not contain any doors opening into the pool area and windows are treated to prevent access to the pool area.

DOORS & WINDOWS

• Doors from a dwelling are prohibited from opening into a swimming pool area. The only exception is for doors opening directly to an indoor swimming pool or spa.

• Acceptable window fixing treatments are as follows:

• Those totally enclosed by screw fixed security screens that can only be removed by the use of a tool

• Those that are fixed so the window cannot open more than 100mm max

• Those with a lowest opening panel not less than 1.8 above the ground level to the pool area

• Those that have firm fixed metal fly-wire installed that is fixed to the building with fasteners that can only be removed by the use of a tool

We have a number of contacts for pool safety inspections, professional licensed fence builders as well as many gate, hinge and latch spare parts. Please contact us if you’re unsure if your pool fences & gates are up to standard.

NEW VICTORIAN SWIMMING POOL & SPA SAFETY LAWS

On 1 December 2019, new laws to improve swimming pool and spa safety came into effect in Victoria. It is now mandatory for owners of land where a swimming pool or spa is located to register their pool or spa with the relevant council.

Owners are also required to have their safety barriers inspected and to lodge a certificate of barrier compliance with their council. If a safety barrier is not compliant, it is the owner’s responsibility to make the barrier compliant.

New Swimming Pool and Spa Safety laws in Victoria

Update: 11 October 2021

New compliance certificate dates were deemed necessary to ensure that pool inspections can be done in an orderly and timely manner during the pandemic.

Compliance certificate must be lodged by:

• 1 June 2022 if pool/spa construction date = On or before 30 June 1994

• 1 June 2023 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 July 1994 until 30 April 2010

• 1 June 2024 if pool/spa construction date = between 1 May 2010 until 31 October 2020

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Pool Barrier Compliance

As of 1 December 2019, it will be mandatory for owners of land where a swimming pool or spa is located, to register their pool or spa with their relevant council, have their safety barriers inspected and to lodge a certificate of barrier compliance with their local council.

Key points

• New laws for the registration, inspection and compliance of pool barriers in effect as at 1 December 2019.

• Pools & Spas must be registered with local councils by 1st November 2020.

• Inspections & lodgement due by 1st June 2021 *pool age decides the due date.

• Poolside Beaconsfield will assist with all compliance requirements.

Registration of Pools and Spas

Pool and spa owners now have until 1st November 2020 to register their pool or spa with their local council.

The total maximum fee that council can charge for pools constructed prior to 1 June 2020 is $79.08

Pools and spas constructed after 1 June 2020 must be registered within 30 days after issue of occupancy permit or certificate of final inspection.

If you do not register your pool by 1 November 2020, you will be subject to fines/penalties.

Local Councils for swimming pool and spa registrations

Casey Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Casey Council
Cardinia Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Cardinia
Knox Council - Click to Register your pool or spa online with Knox Council
Greater Dandenong - Click to Register your pool or spa with Greater Dandenong Council

Once your swimming pool or spa has been registered, you need to arrange an inspection of the safety barrier to determine if the barrier is compliant with the applicable barrier standard.

An inspection of your pool or spa barrier can only be carried out by:

• a registered building surveyor

• a registered building inspector

• a municipal building surveyor

Pool safety barriers

All swimming pools and spas capable of containing water greater than 300mm (30cm) must have a compliant safety barrier to restrict access to the pool area by young children (under the age of five).

Barriers are required for:

• in-ground pools and spas

• above-ground pools and spas, including relocatable and inflatable pools that are capable of holding more than 300mm (30cm) of water and require assembly on site.

• indoor pools and spas

• bathing and wading pools capable of containing more than 300 mm (30cm) of water.

As a pool or spa owner, you have an obligation to maintain the operation of your swimming pool or spa barrier to prevent access to the pool or spa.

The following checklists will help you assess the safety of your barrier. The checklists are based on the relevant barrier standard associated with the date that the pool or spa was installed.

• Checklist 1 (for pools and spas installed before 8 April 1991)

• Checklist 2 (for pools and spas installed between 8 April 1991 and 30 April 2010)

• Checklist 3 (for pools and spas installed from 1 May 2010)

If the inspector determines that your safety barrier complies with the applicable barrier standard, they will issue a certificate of barrier compliance. As the owner of the land with the pool or spa, you then need to lodge the certificate with your council. You must do this within 30 days of receiving the certificate. Pool owners will have 60 days to bring their pools into compliance if an inspector identifies any non-compliant safety concerns.

The fee for lodging a certificate of pool and spa barrier compliance will be up to a maximum of $20.50, with certificates of compliance being required to be lodged once every four years. Hefty fines will apply for pool and spa owners who do not register their pool or spa.

Inspection and lodgement of the certificate of barrier compliance for pools and spas:

• For pools and spas constructed on or before 30 June 1994, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2021

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 July 1994 and 1 May 2010, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2022

• For pools and spas constructed between 1 May 2010 and 31 May 2020, a certificate of barrier compliance must be lodged by 1 June 2023

For pools and spas constructed on or after 1 June 2020, a certificate of barrier compliance is due within 30 days of occupancy permit or certificate of final inspection. This certificate must accompany an application for registration. The next certificate of compliance is due four years after registration.

Poolside Beaconsfield will be registering to have in-house, trained inspectors as soon as the Victorian Building Authority announces further information and training centre locations are announced.

Understanding your chemical balance

Keeping your pool & spa chemically balanced regularly will not only ensure your water is clear and healthy to swim in, but it will also save you money by making your pool chemicals work together, rather than 'chasing' the perfect balance.

If your water is correctly balanced, this means that the water’s chemical demands have been met. However, if chemical levels are out of the ideal range, the water can affect other areas of your pool or spa. For example, it could seek the missing elements it needs by attacking or depositing additional elements onto the surface & equipment which can lead to more expensive problems later if not corrected.

Also, if not properly balanced, the pool’s sanitising process (killing bacteria and algae) can be impaired.

The main 'variables' in your water balance are…
(click to skip to the in-depth explanation section)

pH - Potential Hydrogen
pH ranges from 0-14 with 7.0 being neutral and values below 7 being acidic. The ideal range for your pH is between 7.4 - 7.6 for pools and 7.6 - 7.8 for spas. When your pH is within these ranges your, sanitiser (chlorine) most effective and therefore keeping your pool free of algae.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 200 for raising the pH
Lo’N’Slo for lowering pH

TA - Total Alkalinity
The ideal value of Total Alkalinity is 80 - 125ppm in pools and 100 -120ppm in spas. Keeping your Total Alkalinity within these ranges will stabilise your pH levels. When your TA is low, your pH will fluctuate a lot and therefore reduce the effectiveness of your sanitiser and can cause mild skin & eye irritation.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 100 for raising Total Alkalinity
Lo’N’Slo for lowering Total Alkalinity

Ca - Calcium Hardness
This is a measure of the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. Depending on your pool surface, we recommend a range between 200 - 250ppm. When the Calcium level is too low, the water will draw calcium from the surface of the pool causing deposits to form. Similarly if the calcium levels are too high, this will form hard, unsightly deposits on the surface of the pool and equipment.

Chemicals we use
Balance Pak 300 for increasing calcium hardness

Stabiliser - Cyanuric Acid
Cyanuric acid or, as it’s more commonly known as ‘pool sunscreen' is used as a chlorine stabiliser in swimming pools to reduce chlorine loss due to UV rays (sunlight) if there is no pool cover. Levels should be maintained at approx. 30 - 100ppm. When your stabiliser levels are low, your sanitiser will not last as long in the water and therefore you won’t get effective algae control. If levels become too high, this can block the sanitiser from being effective also.

Chemicals we use
Stabiliser prevents chlorine loss due to sunlight

*Values are approximate ranges that are dependent on your pool/spa type, other balances and factors.

For more information about your pool water balance, speak to one of our knowledgeable staff by calling us on 9769 3252 or ask us a question on our Facebook page HERE.

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Technical in-depth chemical balance explanations.

pH

The pH reading tells us whether the water is acidic or alkaline and incorrect levels may cause itchy skin and red eyes. The pH level ranges from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Values below 7.0 are acidic. However, what is commonly overlooked is the understanding that pH is probably the most important factor to be considered when balancing swimming pool water.

The Australian Standard for pool water is between the range 7.0 to 7.8 with us recommending 7.4 to 7.6 depending on your pool/spa type. The pH level can change after heavy rain, heavy pool usage, topping up the pool, or adding chemicals, which in turn affects sanitising and therefore should be checked and adjusted frequently.

The effect of pH variation is most noticeable in the effectiveness of your chlorine to sanitise your pool. A typical domestic pool will aim for a chlorine level of about 1-3ppm.

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TECHNICAL: Free chlorine is a measure of both Hypochlorous Acid (HOCL) and Hypochlorite ions (OCL-). The Hypochlorous Acid is the active part of the free chlorine which does the oxidising and destruction of contaminants. The Hypochlorite ion is inactive and can be considered the “reserve” that converts to Hypochlorous Acid as required.

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When your pool has a pH of 7, the free chlorine has 75% Hypochlorous Acid (active) ions. If your pool has a pH of 7.8, the free chlorine has just 28% Hypochlorous acid (active) ions, making your sanitiser much less effective.

Therefore a swimming pool with a pH of 7 and a free chlorine level of just 0.5ppm has the same sanitising effect as a pool with a pH of 7.8 and a free chlorine level of 1.35ppm.

This is why the pH of your pool is really important.

T.A - Total Alkalinity

This is a measure of bi-carbonates, carbonates, and hydroxides in the pool. We usually suggest 80ppm to 125ppm is the accepted range, depending on the other balance factors and pool/spa types. We can help you find the recommended level for your pool.

Low Total Alkalinity will lead to erosion of pool surfaces and corrosion of equipment. It will also cause the pH levels to be very unstable so small additions of other chemicals can result in major shifts in pH which is sometimes known as “pH bounce”. A low Total Alkalinity can also cause mild skin irritation and itchiness.

Adding BioGuard Balance Pak 100 will RAISE the Total Alkalinity. Hydrochloric acid will LOWER the Total Alkalinity and the pH so these two chemical components need to be adjusted together.

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TECH TIP: Hydrochloric acid must always be diluted (one part acid into ten parts of water) before being added to the pool and always add acid to water, never water to acid to avoid splashing onto yourself, others or surroundings.

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When topping up the pool, depending on the on the Total Alkalinity of the top-up water and the amount of topping up, this will affect the Total Alkalinity of the pool water.

Calcium Hardness

This is a measure of the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. Depending on your pool surface, we recommend a range between 200ppm and 250ppm for a typical concrete, marbelite, or pebble pool. Calcium Hardness cannot usually be tested with the standard test kit so you will need to bring in a water sample to us for testing.

In most pools where calcium levels are not naturally high, you really only need to test a few times each year unless you are using Calcium Hypochlorite to sanitise your pool. This chemical raises Calcium Hardness levels, so more frequent testing and balancing may be necessary.

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TECH TIP: When adding chemicals we suggest increasing in small amounts, running the filter and testing the effect after several hours to avoid overdosing or encountering other problems.

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If the correct balance of Calcium Hardness is not maintained, just like with Total Alkalinity, low levels cause corrosion to the pool surfaces and equipment and high levels will lead to scale formation. Use BioGuard Balance Pak 300 to increase your calcium hardness levels in your water.

Cyanuric Acid - Stabiliser

Cyanuric acid or as its more commonly known as ‘pool sunscreen' is used as a chlorine stabiliser in swimming pools to reduce chlorine loss due to UV rays (sunlight) if there is no pool cover. It should be added to the pool and maintained at approx. 30-100ppm. It binds itself to free chlorine and then releases it slowly to minimise degradation by UV light, extending the time needed to deplete each dose of sanitiser.

If the levels become too low, the effectiveness of your sanitation will be reduced because the free chlorine is being broken down by the UV light, which leads to the potential increase of algae growth.

On the flip side, if you regularly use powdered stabilized chlorine to sanitise your pool, your stabiliser levels can get too high and this can effectively block your sanitiser from being effective.

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TECHNICAL: The higher the level of Cyanuric acid the more it reduce the effectiveness of free chlorine. To offset the loss of sanitisation power of free chlorine in stabilised outdoor pools the minimum concentration of free chlorine must be kept between 2ppm and 3ppm (ppm= parts per million).

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Interestingly, Cyanuric Acid is not consumed or lost from swimming pool water unless due to splashing, backwashing or introduction of freshwater, these are the only times that you’ll need to add more Cyanuric acid.

*Values are approximate ranges that are dependent on your pool/spa type, other balances and factors.

Reduce the power costs for your spa

Reduce your spa energy costs with these quick and handy tips so you can enjoy a relaxing soak all year round without breaking the bank.

#1 COVER IT UP!

The number one way to reduce your spa energy costs is to invest in a good quality cover. We all know hot air rises, so when you’re not using your spa, it’s essential that you keep it covered. A sturdy cover insulates against heat loss, so the pump and thermostat don’t have to work in overdrive to reheat your water, incurring additional electricity costs.

Regularly inspecting your cover will also save you money in the long run. Check to ensure your cover isn’t broken or damaged and always keep a close eye on the hinge – where heat is most likely to escape. Finally, make sure the cover is a good fit. Even with a top-of-the-range cover, if it doesn’t fit your spa correctly, it will struggle to retain heat, causing your energy bill to rise.

#2 TURN DOWN THE HEAT

The second most effective way to save money on your energy bill is to lower your spa’s thermostat by a few degrees. You won’t notice the difference during your spa session, but your hip pocket certainly will!

NOTE: If you turn it right down when you’re not using it, however, it may end up costing you more. Continually resetting your spa temperature can use more energy and wreak havoc on the heating element. Instead, keep it at a consistent temperature and cover it up when you’re not using it. Doing this minimises energy wastage in two ways: unnecessary energy isn’t being wasted, keeping your spa at a higher temperature; and secondly, you’re not using excess electricity to reheat your water every time you want to soak.

We recommend only turning your spa’s thermostat right down if you’re going away on holiday. And of course, you should turn it off altogether if you’re planning on shutting it down for the season.

#3 CREATE A WINDBREAK

If your spa is located in an open or wind-affected area, creating a windbreak around it with a fence, plantings, or trellising will protect your spa from the wind. This will prevent the water from cooling, and make having a spa a more enjoyable experience!

#4 USE THE SUN

Another cost-effective option is to harness the power of the sun! Installing a solar heating system will mean you can relax guilt-free in your spa all season.

#5 BE STRATEGIC WITH YOUR HEATING

Did you know that there is such a thing as peak energy times? It’s generally during the morning and evening as this is when the energy networks are under the biggest strain. To take the pressure off the electrical grid, many providers offer incentives such as cheaper prices during off-peak times. Use these incentives to your advantage and program your thermostat to heat during off-peak times. A good quality spa cover will keep the water nice and warm for an after-dinner soak. This strategy is guaranteed to shave dollars off your bill!

Easy Spa Maintenance Tips

There aren't many things better after a long day than relaxing in your spa. Keeping your spa clean & healthy with some basic maintenance will ensure your spa is always ready for you!

The key to looking after your spa is knowing the ins and outs of your unit. Having a reasonable understanding of its features will ensure not only that you get the most out of it, but it will also speed up the process if it needs any repairs down the track.

Keep the water moving

The first tip for your spa is making sure you circulate the water every day. This is where knowing your spa’s features can come in handy, as it may have an automatic circulation feature that you can program. Flowing the water through your filter will help keep it free of contaminants. The more you circulate your water through the filter, the cleaner your water will be!

Quick Tip: Have a quick shower before you jump into your spa, the hot water in your spa extracts the oils and lotions from your skin, so a quick shower first will make things easier on your filter!

Weekly scrub

Regularly cleaning your spa is essential. A spa is prone to developing grime around the waterline, so a weekly scrub with a product like BioGuard SPA Squeaky Clean™ will remove any dirt, grease or stains and keep your surfaces bright and beautiful.

Giving your filter a clean using BioGuard SPA Filter Renew™ every month or so will increase the efficiency of your filter which in turn will reduce your overall maintenance cost.

Deep clean

On top of your weekly scrub, give your spa a deep clean every 3-4 months. Dose your spa with BioGuard SPA Swirl Away® and turn on the pump for circulation and then drain the water. This will cut through any scale and grime build up in your pipes and jets, and leave your spa sparkling. (Dosage rates differ for spa baths and outdoor spas/hot tubs so be sure to check with us for the correct dosage rates).

Healthy water

Keeping your water balanced is vital to keeping your spa healthy. This involves tracking the same elements as a pool: pH, alkalinity and sanitiser levels etc.

After a fresh fill, before you start adding any products to your spa, take a sample of your water in for a professional test and balance with us. From then on, we recommend testing your water at least once a week.

Aim for a pH level that sits between 7.2 – 7.6. Adding BioGuard Spa Comfort Up ™ to your water raises the pH and will not only keep you comfortable but also protect your surfaces and equipment. Equally, if you find your water is too alkaline, use BioGuard SPA Aquality™ to prevent cloudy water and prevent scale build-up.

Hot water is also the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, so to keep it safe for you and your family, regularly add a sanitiser such as BioGuard SPA Armour™. It’s both a sanitiser and an oxidiser, so this dual-action product will keep your water clean and crystal clear, and best of all you can add it straight into your water. No need to mess around with pre-dissolving!

It’s also a good idea to shock your water after a period of inactivity. A shock treatment with BioGuard SPA Purity™ will ensure the water is completely sanitised before you jump back in.

Let technology do all the work

If the thought of trying to remember a weekly maintenance routine leaves you feeling overwhelmed, why not use an app to take away the mental load? These days, there are a variety of apps available for your smartphone to help you keep on track. Set it up to send you a notification every time you need to attend to a task. Never again will you forget to test your water or add a dose of sanitiser.

And don’t forget that we're always here to help! We're always happy to answer any questions relating to your spa and can design a maintenance program specifically suited to your needs.

How to get rid of black spot algae in your pool

Get rid of Blackspot algae. Blackspot is notoriously difficult to remove due to its hard black 'shell' which doesn't scrub off easily which protects the algae underneath. However, removing it isn't as difficult as it sounds.

Winter is the perfect time to treat blackspot as the pool isn't in use and you need to increase chlorine levels higher than normal to attack the algae.

1. Clean your baskets and filter to allow for the most efficient water circulation and filtration.

2. Remove the automatic cleaner from the pool. This will increase water flow and prolong the life of your cleaner as there will be a high level of chlorine in the water that can have an adverse effect on its lifespan.

3. Then test the water and balance pH to 7.2- 7.6. When the pH is in this range your chlorine is the most effective. (bring us in a sample to have your water checked 1st)

4. Brush the algae with a hard brush, being careful not to damage the surface of your pool.

5. Super chlorinate your water with the recommended dose by one of our team. This can be done with powdered or liquid chlorine. In some instances, powdered chlorine may even be appropriate to pour directly onto the Blackspot.

6. Add the recommended dose of an algaecide such as BioGuard MSA or Algiguard to assist with the process.

7. Run your filtration system for a minimum of 24 hours and brush the pool as often as you can, ideally twice a day if possible until the Blackspot is gone.

Depending on the amount of Blackspot, this process can take longer and potentially require multiple treatments. Contact us today to discuss the best option for your pool or spa or book one of our technicians below to come to you!

Prepare your spa for Winter

For many of us, the arrival of cooler weather means putting the cover on the swimming pool and preparing the spa for regular winter use.

If your spa has been out of use over the Summer, here are a few easy steps that will have it ready for the cooler months ahead.

STEP 1:

If your spa has a cover, remove it and clean it.

STEP 2:

Even though it is treated, spa water needs to be emptied and replaced every three or four months. The start of the winter season is a good time to do this. Add BioGuard SPA Defence while filling. This will help protect spa equipment and prevent stains caused by metals in the water.

STEP 3:

Once you’ve filled the spa, start it up following your manufacturer’s directions. Then add BioGuard SPA Crystal Clear and allow the water to circulate for about five minutes. Follow this with either BioGuard SPA Perfect Balance or the correct mineral balancing chemicals.

STEP 4:

After the water has circulated for about 30 minutes, add BioGuard SPA Purity to oxidise the water, then add the initial dose of your preferred spa sanitiser as detailed in the product’s start-up instructions.

STEP 5:

You will need to test the water to check the balance; you should have a chlorine residual of 2-3 ppm or bromine residual of 4-6 ppm.

An optional extra step is to add BioGuard SPA Velvet, which improves the feel of the water, reduces the chance of red eyes and irritated skin and helps reduce chemical use.

STEP 6:

Once you’ve started up your spa for the season, ongoing maintenance is straightforward. Just circulate the water each day, keep the filter clean and get rid of contaminants such as dirt, scale and oil from the waterline by using BioGuard SPA Squeaky Clean.

It’s also a good idea to bring a sample of your spa water to us once a month for testing and advice.

Don’t forget, it’s important to clean your filter every 4 to 6 weeks to remove debris. BioGuard Filter Renew is the perfect product for this.

Which temperature to set your spa in Winter

How hot should you have your spa? There aren’t many nicer things than slipping into a warm, bubbling spa. But when it comes to setting your water temperature, how hot is too hot?

Before you touch your control panel, there are a few factors to consider: safety, budget and personal preference. Finding the perfect balance can take some fine-tuning, so to save you some time, we have formulated this guide to heating your spa.

As there are a wide range of models on the market and the way you control the heating system varies. Some models even enable you to manage your spa temperature remotely with your smartphone.

New spa models will generally prevent you from increasing the water temperature too high as a safety precaution. Your maximum spa temperature should not exceed 38°C, and bather time in spas at this temperature should be no longer than 15 minutes. Any water temperature above this level is considered unsafe for adults to swim in and can cause harm to bathers.

DOES WATER TEMPERATURE MATTER?

Water temperature is a personal preference, and we recommend you do some experimentation between the safe levels of 36°C to 38°C. You need to be careful, however, about keeping the water within the safe range, so you don’t damage your body.* We also recommend having a spa thermometer on hand to double check the temperature before using your spa.

ENERGY EFFICIENCY

One of the main concerns of a spa owner is how to prevent an astronomical energy bill. For this reason, it may be tempting to keep your spa at a significantly lower temperature when you’re not using it. Doing this, however, could cost you more! Constantly turning your spa temperature up and down will use more power and can also wreak havoc on the heating element.

Instead, turn the temperature down only slightly when your spa isn’t in use, and keep your spa cover on. This minimises energy wastage by using unnecessary energy to keep your spa at a higher temperature when it’s not in use and it also keeps the water warm enough so when you’re ready to heat it up again, only a small amount of energy is required to reheat the already warm water, rather than the huge power surge that would be required to heat up cold water.

FINDING THE SWEET SPOT

Finding your perfect spa temperature will require some experimentation, but we suggest starting at 37°C (the average body temperature) and then altering it from there if it’s too chilly or too hot.

* It’s important to know that prolonged periods in hot water can present a risk to any swimmer, especially if they have a pre-existing health condition. So, if you have a health condition, it’s a good idea first to discuss the suitability with your healthcare provider before you jump in.

Original article posted by Bioguard

Pool & spa chemicals to keep on hand

Ensuring that you have a small stock of pool chemicals on hand for when you can't make it into the pool shop, will keep your pool in good working order and avoid any expensive issues in the future. Here are our top suggestions for which products and how much of each to keep at home.

Test kit & testing reagents

Chlorine, pH & Total Alkalinity are the main balances to keep in check. With a well-stocked test kit, you can make sure the pool is in balance even when you can’t get into the store.

Chlorine / Bromine

We suggest having at least 2 kg of on hand for a pool or 1kg Bromine for a spa (powdered chlorine will last longer and is easier to store than liquid chlorine)

Hydrochloric Acid / pH Reducer

5 litres of Hydrochloric acid will usually last around 4-6 weeks for average-sized pools or 500gms of pH reducer for spas.

Buffer / Total Alkalinity Increaser

2 kgs of pH buffer for pools or 500gms of TA Increaser for spas will last you a month or more, depending on the weather conditions.

Salt & Minerals

Having a few extra bags on hand, ideally, 2-4, will allow you to top up if your chlorinator production drops.

Clarifier

1ltr Quick Clear Liquid clarifier (or 3 - 4 Super Clear clarifying tabs) will help your filter remove organic and inorganic waste.

Oxidiser

1 kg Oxysheen will help the chlorine kill germs and bacteria much faster and efficiently.

Book a pool test and balance online below or
call 03 9769 3252 to keep your pool going over the next few months.

A guide to sanitising your spa

When it comes to treating your spa, a sanitiser will keep your water clean and healthy by destroying any bacteria that develop. Bacteria thrive in a warm moist environment, so the hot water of your spa is the perfect breeding ground. By ensuring that there’s sufficient sanitiser continually present in the water, your spa will be safe every time you use it.

Maintaining your spa’s sanitiser dosage is vital to keeping all bathers safe.

There are a variety of spa sanitisers on the market which can make choosing one confusing but to keep the water safe for you and your family, you want to ensure you’ve got the best! Chlorine and bromine are the two main chemicals that are recognised by Health Authorities as providing the necessary level of safety for bathers. That’s why the sanitisers we stock are either chlorine, bromine, or a combination of the two.

Treat it right

At the start of the season, we recommend bringing in a sample of your spa water to us for a professional state-of-the-art water test. From then on, test your water at home at least once a week, to maintain an active level of sanitiser throughout the season.

You want the sanitiser level to sit around 2-5ppm bromine or 1-3ppm chlorine. If the level drops below the recommended range, bacteria can begin to grow and multiply very quickly. If the level has dropped, add the recommended dosage of your sanitiser to the water (dosage rates differ for spa baths and outdoor spas/hot tubs).

Along with your weekly sanitiser routine, it’s also a good idea to regularly shock your spa during the season. Doing this will destroy any build-up of contaminants in your water.

So which sanitiser best suits your needs?

Indoor spa or pool with attached spa

BioGuard SPA Symmetry® is an ideal product to sanitise your indoor spa, or pool with an attached spa, due to its reduced odour. It consists of a mixture of bromine and chlorine, and when used as directed, its slow, consistent dissolving rate provides a constant and reliable sanitiser level at all times.

Outdoor spa

For an outdoor spa, we suggest BioGuard SPA Armour®. It’s fast-dissolving so you can add it straight into your spa, and its dual action acts as both a sanitiser and oxidiser. Keeping not only your water clean but also clearing cloudy water.

If you’re unsure about the sanitiser dosage rate for your spa contact us for our expert advice.

Quarterly deep clean

It’s also important to note that your spa should be drained every quarter. It will need a deep clean to cut through any stains or biofilm build-up (biofilm harbours bacteria). For this, add a dose of BioGuard SPA Swirl Away®, turn on the pump for circulation, then drain the water and refill it with fresh water.

Keeping your spa water sanitised doesn’t have to be hard, if you keep on top of your water balance you can soak trouble-free all season!

How to make the most of your spa in autumn

It’s time to pull off the cover and enjoy a revitalising and relaxing spa! However, if you’ve neglected your spa for a few weeks or maybe a few months, there are a few simple things you’ll need to do to get everything ready!

1. Your spa cover

While keeping out dirt, leaves and bugs, the cover also acts as a seal for your spa. So if you’re removing the cover for the first time in a while, it’s a good idea to give your spa a good airing.

At the same time, give the cover a clean, with a simple wipe with warm soapy water.

2. Treat the water

Many spa manufacturers have a specific start-up procedure to make sure everything is working fine. We recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions at all times.

If you’re re-filling your spa, ensure the water is circulating before balancing it with products from the BioGuard Spa balancing range.

Use BioGuard Spa Sanitiser, as per label directions and your spa manufacturer’s start-up instructions to sanitise your water and neutralise bugs and germs.

Then add BioGuard Spa Purity to oxidise the water and BioGuard Spa Crystal Clear to really get that water sparkling.

Finally, we recommend adding BioGuard Spa Defence. This will help to protect your spa, pump, and filter and prevent surface staining and build-up.

With the treatment complete, you should have a chlorine level of 2-3 ppm.

We always suggest bringing a sample of your spa water to us and we’ll help you get that balance just right.

3. Run the jets

To maintain water quality in your spa, it’s a good idea to run the jets. This not only helps to regulate the spa temperature but running the jets will pass more water through your filter quickly and help keep your spa clean, just remember to regularly check and clean/change the filter as required.

If you are not going to fully cover the spa between spa sessions, running the jets and circulating the water regularly is important to filter out the dirt, dust and debris that fall in.

4. Set the temperature

Spas are designed to heat water to the perfect temperature for you to enjoy, obviously this takes time, so planning ahead is key. Your maximum spa temperature should not exceed 38°C, and bather time in spas at this temperature should be no longer than 15 minutes.

Finding your perfect spa temperature will require some experimentation, but we suggest starting at 37°C (the average body temperature) and then altering it slightly from there.

Constantly turning your spa temperature up and down will use more power and can also wreak havoc on the heating element. Rather, turn the temperature down only slightly when your spa isn’t in use, and keep your spa cover on. This minimises energy wastage and will keep the water warm enough so when you’re ready to heat it up again, only a small amount of energy is required to reheat the already warm water, rather than the huge power surge that would be required to heat up cold water.

*This one is optional! Cold spas are incredibly refreshing at any time of year. Depending on the make and model, this may simply prevent the heating element from turning on, but in some cases, your spa can actively cool the water.

If you really want to refresh yourself… you can drop the temperature even further by adding ice, this won’t damage your spa or spa surfaces, but we still recommend adding it in small increments, so you can more easily control the chemistry of your spa.

Types of chlorine for your pool

Bacteria can grow in any untreated body of water with swimmers being the primary source of contaminants along with rainwater, leaves, grass, dust and pets.

Having a sanitiser in your pool or spa at recommended levels will eliminate most of the bacteria in the water. The neutralised bacteria is then filtered out & any residual sanitiser left in the water will continue to work to prevent new bacteria growth.

Sanitiser = Chlorine

The recommended Chlorine level in a standard outdoor pool is between 2.5 - 3.0ppm (parts per million) with heated pools and spas requiring a higher level of sanitiser than non-heated pools. This is because sanitisers are consumed more quickly in hot water.

*Please note: The majority of the information in this article is for swimming pools. For more information on sanitising your spa, please click below.

Types of Sanitisers

Each form of chlorine and its production has its own individual features, pros and cons. Our knowledgeable staff can happily help you work out which form of sanitation is best for your pool/spa and lifestyle.

Liquid Chlorine

(Sodium Hypochlorite)

It is most commonly available as a liquid. Liquid chlorine is the most economical and can be dosed automatically, however, the storage containers are bulky and liquid chlorine has a limited shelf life due to loss of strength over time from heat and sunlight. It also has a naturally high pH level of 13 which will always increase the pH of a pool or spa, requiring it to be rebalanced after each dose.

Granular Chlorine

Granular chlorine is a more convenient option compared with liquid chlorine as it's more concentrated and easier to store. However, it’s more expensive and cannot be dosed using an automatic feeder unless it is in tablet form via a float and comes in 2 common forms Calcium Hypochlorite and Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Available in granular or tablet form, has between 60-70% available chlorine (effective chlorine content). As it is made up of Calcium, continual use will increase your Calcium Hardness levels over time which can affect your pool surface. The ideal Calcium Hardness levels for concrete and pebble surfaces are between 200-400, Fibreglass between 120-250 and Vinyl liners 20-150. If these levels become too high, scale formation on the pool surface is possible.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.7ppm increase in your Calcium Hardness level.

Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate - Also available in granular or tablet form, is usually about 50-60% available chlorine. This form of chlorine also contains Cyanuric Acid or 'stabiliser'. Continual use of Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate will continually increase your level of Cyanuric Acid and these can potentially get too high and cause a 'chlorine block' whereby it inhibits the ability of your chlorine to work effectively.

*As a guide, for every 1ppm increase in your chlorine level, you'll get about a 0.9ppm increase in your stabiliser level. For an uncovered, salt or chlorine pool, the ideal Cyanuric acid level is between 40-60.

Types of chlorine production

Automatic Chlorinators

Chlorine can also be generated by salt or mineral chlorinators. Chlorinators use a process called electrolysis. In a saltwater chlorinator, it works by using an electrical charge to 'split' the Sodium Chloride (Salt) into Sodium and Chlorine. It is circulated into the pool so it can kill bacteria and viruses and prevent algae growth around the pool.

Eventually, this natural form of chlorine is used up and reverts back to the original two elements of sodium and chlorine = salt.

Common Misconceptions - SALT IS USED UP IN CHLORINE PRODUCTION

Salt chlorinators do not use up the salt to create chlorine. Saltwater chlorination is closed-loop system, the salt isn’t used up in the process as it reverts back to Sodium Chloride (Salt) and repeats the process all over again.

Low Chlorine Systems

These systems are fast becoming very popular. They’re a much healthier alternative to manually adding chlorine or using a saltwater chlorinator. It’s great for people who have an intolerance to chlorine or who live with conditions such as asthma or eczema. These are sanitising systems that produce only a very small amount of chlorine and use other techniques such as Ioniser or Ozone systems to keep the pool clean, clear & healthy.

These systems require a much lower level of chlorine as a primary sanitiser, as they also use either an Ionising rod or an Ozone generator to produce a secondary sanitiser which is often much more effective than chlorine & creates a "fresher" or more natural feeling water.

Click below to learn about the Mineral Swim System or contact us to find out which low-chlorine system would be right for your pool.

Common Misconceptions - Chlorine Odour

A strong chlorine smell doesn’t always mean too much chlorine, it could mean too little. The odour is produced by chloramines and these can also cause sore eyes and itchy skin. To remove chloramines, it can be as simple as super chlorination or the use of a non-chlorine Oxidiser like Oxysheen for pools and Purity for Spas, however, it’s always best to have your water tested first, come in and see one of our staff with a water sample

Pool & Spa Safety - CPR

If you have a pool or spa, you must have a CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) sign prominently displayed, ideally in eye-sight of the step area, as this is the most obvious place assistance would take place. 

Knowing CPR can save lives. It’s recommended that pool spa owners should be trained in CPR and have resuscitation skills. Remember, if someone gets into a dangerous situation phone your local emergency services.

Life Saving Victoria has a number of great resources for you to keep your family safe around the pool & spa, allowing you to relax and enjoy it!

Their Resuscitate checklist is:

• Check for danger to self, to bystanders and to the victim (Danger)

• Shout “Are you ok?” and gently squeeze the victim’s shoulder (Response)

• Send for help (Send)

• Clear and maintain airway (Airway)

• Look, listen and feel for breathing (Breathing)

• If no signs of life, commence CPR (Compression)

• If available, grab a defibrillator and follow the prompts (Defibrillation)

View their other pool safety services here - https://lsv.com.au/pool-safety-services

CPR signs

CPR signs must:

• be attached to the safety barrier of the pool or spa, or displayed near the water so that the sign is easily visible to a person near the pool or spa

• be at least 300mm by 300mm in size

• ideally, be made of durable and weatherproof material

• include a prominent statement explaining how to act in an emergency (e.g. call Triple Zero, stay with the injured person, provide first aid).

Please contact us if you require a new CPR sign for your pool area. You can purchase in-store or arrange for us to supply one at our next service.

CPR sign example - Life Saving Victoria

Life Saving Victoria

Life-Saving Victoria’s mission is to prevent aquatic-related death and injury in all Victorian communities. Their Vision is that all Victorians will learn water safety, swimming and resuscitation and be provided with safe aquatic environments and venues.

Visit https://lsv.com.au for more information about the LSV.

Party tips for your pool or spa

Making sure your pool or spa is clean before, during and after a party doesn't have to be hard. Before you invite everyone over for a swim, read our tips on getting your pool party ready and know how to get it back in shape once the party’s over.

Before the party

• Ensure your water is balanced,

• Remove all the debris from the pool with a manual vacuum and leaf rake,

• Balance your water, then for a pool give it a shock dose with liquid chlorine or a pool shock sachet (the average size pool is 5 litres of liquid or 500 grams of granular chlorine), For a spa, once balanced, add the recommended amount of a non-chlorine oxidiser as well as removing the cover if you plan to use straight away.

During the party

• If your pool is being used consistently, have the pump running without any automatic cleaner attached to improve water flow and reduce the possibility of damage to your cleaner, always run the spa whilst in use.

• If the pool continues to be used heavily, using a non-chlorine shock such as Oxysheen can be added when there is a short break in swimmer use (like lunchtime) to help maintain clarity and burn off organic swimmer waste.

After the party

• Remove all debris from the pool or spa such as streamers, paper, bottle caps, paper plates, plastic cutlery, etc. If a bottle cap or metal object is left on the bottom of the pool or spa too long, it could stain the surface.

• Clean out all the baskets to improve water flow, both skimmer and pump baskets will have party debris in them.

• Check the pressure in the filter and if it is not too high allow it to filter for another 24 hrs (for a pool) or 2 hours for a spa to filter out finer particles. If the pressure gets too high, give the filter a quick backwash (1 minute with 1 minute rinse) or clean with the hose for the cartridge & D.E filters.

• Shock the pool with BioGuard Lite, or if you have a saltwater pool – BioGuard Salt Pool Sparkle to eliminate these wastes and any odours.

• If the water is cloudy, add the recommended shock dose of your sanitiser (chlorine for a pool, and bromine or Oxysheen for a spa) and run the filter for a few hours.

• Bring a water sample down to us at Poolside Beaconsfield for testing, and have it balanced up as soon as possible and ready for the next time!

We’re always here to help so if you need a pre-party cleanup and balance, or you’ve had your big party and need some professional help on the cleanup, click below to book online or call us directly on 03 9769 3252.

Weekly Spa Maintenance

While it can seem like a hassle to keep your spa clean and balanced on a weekly basis. You will save money, time and potentially costly issues in the future. Read our easy weekly spa maintenance tips below.

Be Consistent:

Consistency really is the key to having a beautiful spa week in, and week out. We recommend taking the time to sketch up a quick schedule to keep you in a routine of maintaining your beautiful spa schedule and adding reminders to your phone. If you live with others, you could make a spa maintenance roster.

Consistency also helps you to measure and improve how your spa is running. By consistently maintaining your spa you can easily detect when things aren’t working perfectly.

What to Check:

Daily:

Spa Cover - Don’t allow the cover to get damaged or accumulate water and debris on the top.

Water Temp - This will help you maintain a constant temperature, but any drastic change will indicate malfunction.

Every Few Days:

Sanitiser levels - A combination of heavy use and hot water take their toll on the sanitiser used, but whatever the source, the microorganisms present in the spa must be killed in some way or another and as quickly as possible. You should have a chlorine residual of 2-3 ppm or bromine residual of 4-6 ppm.

Alkalinity level and pH balances - By maintaining a perfectly balanced spa, you’re ensuring water safety. The pH level needs to be as close as possible to our eye’s natural pH, which sits around 7.5 on a pH scale of 0-14.

To maintain a stable comfortable pH, soften spa water and protect equipment, we recommend using our BioGuard Perfect Balance.

Keep it Clean:

If you want a sparkling spa, cleaning it once a week will keep it looking brand new.

A product like BioGuard SPA Squeaky Clean removes scale, hard water deposits, and grease and dirt from along the water line so it will keep your spa surfaces looking clean and bright.

Every few days, cleaning above the water line will keep the drier areas of your spa from building up any dirt or water residue.

Filtration of your spa should be ongoing. To maintain water quality and cleanliness, your filter should run a minimum of four hours a day, even when it is not being used. Clean the filter with your garden hose to loosen dirt and debris and spray BioGuard SPA Filter Renew directly onto the filter.

By following our easy tips above, you’ll keep your spa in good condition, your water clean and healthy and everyone that uses your spa happy!