Pool Chemicals aren’t all created equal

• Chemicals from large retailers may be cheap, though they will cause expensive problems later.

• They chemicals you use affect other parts of the pool & water balance

• Pool shops have specialised knowledge on what chemicals to use and what’s in them.

• Use the right chemicals less often.

Don’t get sold the wrong pool chemicals for your pool!

Most large retailers don’t specialise in swimming pool & spa chemicals so will sell what has the best profit margins for them, and this usually means the quality is lower. Their staff also don’t have the high levels of knowledge and understanding about the chemicals they are selling, as well as the effects they have on your water & and your health!

Did you know?

The short-term saving on your chemical costs will cause issues later due to chemical imbalances & impurities from their pool quality. For example, did you know that not all pool Chlorine is the same? There are five types!

1. Sodium hypochlorite,

2. Calcium hypochlorite,

3. Lithium hypochlorite,

4. Trichlor, and

5. Dichlor.

Each Chlorine type has a different purpose based on what kind of pool you have and the application you’re using it for.

If you want to learn more about the different chlorines, keep reading below, otherwise, come in to and take advantage of the knowledge and extensive training from the team at Poolside Beaconsfield and we’ll make sure your pool is balanced.

Skip to Why is all this important?

Sodium hypochlorite is liquid chlorine, great for killing algae quickly, though is used up just as fast. Calcium hypochlorite is the powdered chlorine most used for pool shock & even day to day use.

The active constituent of chlorine changes from brand to brand and can range from 400gms/kgs for day-to-day use up to 600gms/kg for shock treatments.

These chlorines are also un-stabilised, meaning it does not contain any Cyanuric Acid which slows the chlorine from being broken down by the sun.

Trichlor and Dichlor are stabilized Chlorine, meaning they do contain Cyanuric acid for sun protection.

Trichlor has a high Chlorine saturation and affects a pool’s pH and Dichlor, on the other hand, has a neutral pH level, not affecting the pH of the pool. It also has a high Chlorine saturation, dissolves quickly, and is great for spas.

Trichlor & Dichlor may seem like the way to go… However, you can’t keep putting stabilised chlorine into the pool as this will increase your cyanuric acid (stabiliser) level, and lead to further issues.

Why is this important?

Children and adults with sensitive skin are vulnerable to the effects of over chlorination, changes in pH and other effects of improper pool chemicals.

If you put the same weight of chlorine into a pool or spa and it has a higher level of active chlorine, you’ll run the risk of sore eyes, itchy skin, difficulty breathing, discoloured clothing, reduced equipment life and the list goes on.

What other chemicals are different?

Other cheap chemicals that can cause more problems than just chlorine are algaecides, minerals and salt.

ALGAECIDES

It’s very common to find staining due to copper in algaecides. If you pick up an algaecide from a large retailer, they mostly likely won’t ask you what algae you’re treating, they won’t test your copper levels in your pool or check what equipment you must ensure there are no issues with putting that in your pool.

Using a copper algaecide regularly will eventually build up your copper levels and you’ll have staining occur. From there you’ll need to treat the stains and continually add a product to keep the stains from coming back.

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of copper staining.

SALT

The salt you can buy from the large retailers is what is not good enough for pool shops. This poor/low quality pool salt contains dirt, fillers and even metal shavings. This all goes into your pool and then stays there while you swim and can cause algae problems and staining.

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of salt staining.

MINERALS

Don’t overpay for minerals when your lager retails have a mostly salt content, mixed in with a little Magnesium and possibly some other minerals and passing off as ‘Minerals’. Poolside Beaconsfield have a guaranteed 70% Magnesium content in our bags of minerals, so when you buy Magnesium, you’re getting Magnesium, not a bit of everything else!

OR

Go to Poolside Beaconsfield and let them take the risk out of you minerals.

Overall, you can take a chance with cheaper chemicals from the large retailers, however, if you want you use less chemicals, use the right chemicals makes healthy water to swim in.

Winter Water Balance

With the colder weather, shorter days, and limited use of the swimming pool, we tend to forget that the pool still requires correct chemical balance to remain clean and healthy. Excessive chlorine levels can cause unwanted degradation of pool covers, skimmer baskets, and pool cleaners.

Keeping your eye on the chemical balance each month will not only keep your water clear, but it will also prolong the life of your equipment!

Here are some tips to help maintain a safe and correct chemical throughout the Winter period:

1. Chlorine Levels

Ideal ranges - covered pool = 0.5 - 1ppm, uncovered pool 1 - 3ppm

If you have not reduced your running times, or have a pool cover over your pool, you will need to regularly check your chlorine levels to ensure it does not get too high. Excessive Chlorine levels can result in the deterioration of your expensive pool blankets and automatic pool cleaners. It can also have an effect on the pool surface!

It can affect your pH - the higher the chlorine level, the higher the potential for an unhealthy pool. This can cause a raft of other issues, making it more expensive to correct when the weather warms up and you want to use the pool.

2. pH

Ideal ranges - 7.4 - 7.6

It is important to maintain the correct balance of your pH. If your pH is either too high or too low, it can affect the other chemical readings in the water. A high pH makes your Chlorine ineffective and allows scaling to build up on the surface of your pool surface and salt cells. A very low pH can burn off the chlorine before it can sanitise the water.

3. Phosphates

Ideal range - below .1

In Winter, you'll probably be taking advantage of running shorter filtration times, saving the wear and tear on equipment and lowering your power consumption. If your pool is Winterised, you will be able to run the filtration system even less.

With the lower running times though, there is the potential for the amount of dust and debris in the pool to build as the cleaner and skimmer may not have enough time to remove it all. This can increase your phosphate levels. A High phosphate level can provide perfect conditions for algae to grow and that could end up costing you more in the long run.

Follow the BioGuard 3 Step Program for a healthy, low maintenance pool this winter 

Click to download the full .pdf

How to get rid of black spot algae in your pool

Get rid of Blackspot algae. Blackspot is notoriously difficult to remove due to its hard black 'shell' which doesn't scrub off easily which protects the algae underneath. However, removing it isn't as difficult as it sounds.

Winter is the perfect time to treat blackspot as the pool isn't in use and you need to increase chlorine levels higher than normal to attack the algae.

1. Clean your baskets and filter to allow for the most efficient water circulation and filtration.

2. Remove the automatic cleaner from the pool. This will increase water flow and prolong the life of your cleaner as there will be a high level of chlorine in the water that can have an adverse effect on its lifespan.

3. Then test the water and balance pH to 7.2- 7.6. When the pH is in this range your chlorine is the most effective. (bring us in a sample to have your water checked 1st)

4. Brush the algae with a hard brush, being careful not to damage the surface of your pool.

5. Super chlorinate your water with the recommended dose by one of our team. This can be done with powdered or liquid chlorine. In some instances, powdered chlorine may even be appropriate to pour directly onto the Blackspot.

6. Add the recommended dose of an algaecide such as BioGuard MSA or Algiguard to assist with the process.

7. Run your filtration system for a minimum of 24 hours and brush the pool as often as you can, ideally twice a day if possible until the Blackspot is gone.

Depending on the amount of Blackspot, this process can take longer and potentially require multiple treatments. Contact us today to discuss the best option for your pool or spa or book one of our technicians below to come to you!

Which pool type is best for you?

Which is chlorination (sanitation) type is best for your pool and your family? There are a multitude of different options available to choose from so we break down the benefits and drawbacks of each one along with our preferred options, allowing you to make a more informed choice when choosing your type of pool.

Chlorine

A Chlorine only pool (in this instance), is one where either liquid or powdered chlorine is manually or automatically added to the water regularly. Liquid chlorine is the cheapest way to chlorinate your water, however, it is also the bulkiest and most hazardous. The use of an automatic feeder will monitor your pool chlorine level and adjust accordingly. These however are expensive and due to the highly corrosive nature of liquid chlorine, can require a lot of maintenance.

Powdered chlorine is more efficient, safer and easier to handle, however, it is more expensive. It also cannot be manually delivered, with the exception of chlorine tablets, which are compressed forms of powdered chlorine.

All other balances still need to be maintained especially the pH as this is easily affected by the addition of chlorine. Maintaining proper stabiliser & calcium levels with powdered chlorine is also necessary.

Pros - Potentially cheaper

Cons - More work to maintain levels, bulky, hazardous, throws out other balances quickly.

Saltwater

By far the most popular type of pool sanitation in Australia. The use of a saltwater chlorinator to produce chlorine regularly throughout the filtration cycle is both efficient and practical. The constant production of chlorine gas begins to work instantly in the pool water to neutralise algae, bacteria and other organic matter. The process requires the pool water to have a minimum amount of salt in the water, usually anywhere from 2,500 ppm (parts per million) to 5,000ppm depending on the brand and model. If the salt level falls below this level, the production is reduced or even stopped to avoid damage to the unit.

Saltwater chlorinators have an approximate lifespan of about 5 years depending on how long they're used each day and at what output its set to.

Pros - Tried & tested, efficient chlorine production, great if you like salt water!

Cons - No testing of chlorine levels so can build up chlorine too high if left unchecked.

Mineral Pool + Ozone

Fast becoming a very popular option among pool owners, Mineral pools such as Mineral Swim, utilise a two-stage sanitisation process. The first is similar to the saltwater chlorinator which uses minerals instead of salt to produce a small amount of chlorine as well as make the water softer and clearer. It works in conjunction with the Ozone system to neutralise organic material such as algae and bacteria in the water. The Ozone component is 3,500 times faster at killing bacteria than chlorine alone.

Pros - Softer & clearer water, low chlorine levels, no 'chlorine smell' perfect for sensitive skin & asthma sufferers.

Cons - More expensive than traditional saltwater systems

Freshwater

The typical 'freshwater' system uses a combination of copper to prevent algae growth and silver to disinfect the water which is infused into the water neutralising bacteria. This type of water purification has been around since the Ancient Greeks discovered that algae wouldn't grow in copper water pots! There is still a very small amount of chlorine that is required to keep the water safe.

Pros - Very low chlorine levels required, soft free water feel

Cons - One of the most expensive options for residential pool water management.

Ultimately, the type of pool comes down to your personal preferences. Do you want ease of maintenance or an amazing swimming experience? Whichever you decide, we can help you find the right system to your pool and ensure it works for you and your family!

A guide to sanitising your spa

When it comes to treating your spa, a sanitiser will keep your water clean and healthy by destroying any bacteria that develop. Bacteria thrive in a warm moist environment, so the hot water of your spa is the perfect breeding ground. By ensuring that there’s sufficient sanitiser continually present in the water, your spa will be safe every time you use it.

Maintaining your spa’s sanitiser dosage is vital to keeping all bathers safe.

There are a variety of spa sanitisers on the market which can make choosing one confusing but to keep the water safe for you and your family, you want to ensure you’ve got the best! Chlorine and bromine are the two main chemicals that are recognised by Health Authorities as providing the necessary level of safety for bathers. That’s why the sanitisers we stock are either chlorine, bromine, or a combination of the two.

Treat it right

At the start of the season, we recommend bringing in a sample of your spa water to us for a professional state-of-the-art water test. From then on, test your water at home at least once a week, to maintain an active level of sanitiser throughout the season.

You want the sanitiser level to sit around 2-5ppm bromine or 1-3ppm chlorine. If the level drops below the recommended range, bacteria can begin to grow and multiply very quickly. If the level has dropped, add the recommended dosage of your sanitiser to the water (dosage rates differ for spa baths and outdoor spas/hot tubs).

Along with your weekly sanitiser routine, it’s also a good idea to regularly shock your spa during the season. Doing this will destroy any build-up of contaminants in your water.

So which sanitiser best suits your needs?

Indoor spa or pool with attached spa

BioGuard SPA Symmetry® is an ideal product to sanitise your indoor spa, or pool with an attached spa, due to its reduced odour. It consists of a mixture of bromine and chlorine, and when used as directed, its slow, consistent dissolving rate provides a constant and reliable sanitiser level at all times.

Outdoor spa

For an outdoor spa, we suggest BioGuard SPA Armour®. It’s fast-dissolving so you can add it straight into your spa, and its dual action acts as both a sanitiser and oxidiser. Keeping not only your water clean but also clearing cloudy water.

If you’re unsure about the sanitiser dosage rate for your spa contact us for our expert advice.

Quarterly deep clean

It’s also important to note that your spa should be drained every quarter. It will need a deep clean to cut through any stains or biofilm build-up (biofilm harbours bacteria). For this, add a dose of BioGuard SPA Swirl Away®, turn on the pump for circulation, then drain the water and refill it with fresh water.

Keeping your spa water sanitised doesn’t have to be hard, if you keep on top of your water balance you can soak trouble-free all season!

Oxidising your pool water

Oxidisation in your water may sound bad, though it’s actually a very good thing! When you oxidise your water, you’re killing algae, bacteria and other organic material by breaking it down on a molecular level.

So, what is oxidation in pool or spa water?

Oxidisation is the chemical reaction that occurs when a reactive substance (chlorine or oxidisers) interacts with unwanted organic matter (sweat, leaves, suntan lotion, algae, etc). The chlorine you add to your pool is there to attack and destroy unwanted bacteria.

How is it different from Chlorine?

When chlorine reacts to organic material, like sweat, lotions and other organic materials, it can create harmful chloramines. Chloramines are what can cause irritation of the skin and eyes and often leaves an unpleasant ‘chlorine’ smell.

When should you oxidise?

The short answer is weekly, especially when your pool is in use (in Summer).

Oxidising removes the unwanted organic matter before it builds up and becomes a problem. This allows chlorine to focus on its job, killing bacteria.

The best way to avoid these problems altogether and ensure your pool water is always safe and healthy, is to just follow the BioGuard 3-Step Program.

Step 1: Sanitise the water to remove harmful bacteria
Step 2: Use an oxidiser to destroy organic matter and keep the water sparkling clear
Step 3: Treat water with an algaecide to control any algae growth

We recommend having a few of the following products on hand to keep your water clear and healthy.

For salt pools, use Salt Pool Sparkle, and for chlorine pools, use BioGuard Lite. These are perfect for your weekly maintenance program, as they’re fast-acting so you can get back in the water after an hour.

BioGuard Burn Out Extreme provides a convenient and economical means for shocking swimming pools as well as treating pools with chlorine demand and algae problems.

BioGuard Oxysheen is a chlorine-free, stabiliser-free oxidiser treatment for pools, which also allows bathers back in the water one hour after treatment.

And if you ever need any advice at all on keeping your pool or spa ready to go, contact us online, in-store or on the phone.